What speedo bracket.

[Rupert123]

Hi everyone,
As a new heavyweight owner i wonder could you help me with a couple of problems, my machine is a 1954 500cc it has a non standard speedo bracket the club spares offer
Two types a touring bracket and a competition bracket which one do i require as i do not know the difference, also the bike has developed a starting problem, i suspect the timing has slipped it really bites when i try to start it last kick back gave me a bad limp for two days ,once i have cured this problem which is the safest way to kick it over i.e on the mainstand standing on the footrests or standing along side of it swinging it over with my right leg i would be most grateful as i have just turned 60 last week my pain threshold is not what it used to be look forward to any inputs you can give.

Cheers Martin.

[Rob Harknett]

Start it astride the bike on the stand, use the decompression lever to ease it over TDC. If the bike kicked back, you have the A/R lever two far advanced when starting it up. It won't kick back if you fully retard the lever and get it just over TDC before kicking it.

[Pharisee]

When starting the beast from cold, I couldn't get enough momentum into the flywheel to start it if I just used the exhaust valve lifter to 'ease it over compression' and then kick it. (I'm 71, about 5' 7" and weigh in at about 13 stone kitted out). My technique (from cold) is to flood the carb, close the air slide, hold the throttle about 1/4 open then hold the valve lifer in, kick it twice in quick succession to get the engine spinning, kick it a third time, releasing the valve lifer... she usually starts. I do this with the bike on the centre stand and me standing on the footrest. Oh yes.... Hold the front brake on!! (Go on.. ask me how I know to do that!! )

[clive]

I think it is worth getting used to kick starting the bike sitting astride it and no stand. Thirteen stone ought to be plenty. Technique, take it up to compression, then pull valve lifter, move the kickstart through about 2/3 of its movement then return to the top and swing your whole weight down on it. (your bike should have an auto advance/retard, if not retard the mag before doing this). Why do I advise getting used to starting the bike whilst astride it? Well if you embarassingly stall it at the lights you don't have to get off to pull it on the stand and restart it. PS I used to be well under 13 stone when I got my first Matchless not now!!!

[Rupert123]

Thanks for the info everybody,
I have very limited knowledge on these big thumpers it is a steep and painful learning curve but i am learning all the time especially with all the help on the forum.
Pharisee i can only guess the only thing i can think of was it in gear and it acted like a fast launch control and it vaulted off the mainstand,my problem started last week it would not start checked for sparks none ,took the cover of the mag checked no points gap i set to 12 thou Brutus started second kick no problems,stopped it to get the riding gear for a quick lap round the block then it would not restart ,,it was backfiring through the carb it was even backfiring when i was slowly cranking it up and over TDC ,then the next kick it bit after 15 minutes when the pain died at little and i did not have to go to casualty i pushed it back into the garage and left it i shall check the timing this week end to see if it has slipped.

ATB Martin
PS ref the speedo bracket any idea which one should be on my bike.

[Rob Harknett]

Noticed Clives post about auto AR, which would had been SR1 on a 54 500cc. I may be worth checking the AR unit is not sticking or stuck wide open fully advanced.. It may explain your theory the timing has slipped. If the unit has stuck open you may well think the timing has slipped. The engine will prove very difficult to start and kick back like a horse. Check the AR by hand, open and it should snap shut, clean with petrol plus drop of oil. grease the chain.
Before I start my bikes, as I don't use them much. First check its not got knocked in gear. Them pull the Clutch lever in, give 2/3 kicks to free the plates. Then 2/3 kicks using decompression lever, just to turn the engine over a few times. Get the engine just over TDC. NOW turn the petrol on and flood the carb. ( You will wet the plug a bit drawing in petrol on the kicks to free the engine, if you turn on and flood before the kick to start the bike. )
There's two brackets listed, one for comp the other for road models.

[clive]

If you have the auto advance/ retard unit, also check the tension n the chain. if too tight it will stop the movement should be a minimum of 1/4 whip, I tend to set it so it just cannot hit the case.
Speedo bracket, the comp model will have the speedo mounted on the fork crown, the road model will have it mounted in the headlight.

[Rupert123]

I will give your starting sequence a try Rob , as a complete novice to AJS , Matchless bikes and magnetos, i think my my bike has a non standard
mag fitted i think it is an n4 with manual advance retard,i have checked cam plate that opens and closes the points and this has full movement when the A/R lever is pushed or pulled, by the chain are you referring to the magneto chain , i surmise by your starting technique that these bikes are fairly critical about the amount of fuel that is introduced during the start up.

ATB Martin.

[Pharisee]

PS ref the speedo bracket any idea which one should be on my bike.

If your bike is an un-modified '54, then the speedometer is mounted on the 'touring' bracket, part no. 016945.
This locates in a vertical slot milled into the front of the top yoke and secured with a single screw.
Check your top yoke... if it has the slot milled (see parts list below) then that's the bracket you need.
If it doesn't, then you'll either need the later 'cowled' headlamp shell to mount it in or use the 'competition' bracket which is mounted under one of the fork cap nuts.

[Rob Harknett]

Difficult to answer questions without knowing just what bits are on your bike. SR1 mag was introduced in 1954 on the 500, 350 in 1955. You do not seem to have the correct mag, for the year/model your bike is.
Fuel is not critical with our bikes or any others of the era. Facts are, you need to flood the carb before starting. ( Float chamber full ) if you have too many tries before the bike starts, the plug will foul up wet, making start up even more difficult.