Waterslide Transfers

g4321 · Post by **g4321** » Fri Jul 15, 2005 11:42 pm

I have used the spares scheme waterslide transfers in all the standard locations on my bike BUT have as yet (after trying 2 or 3 times over the last couple of years) been unsuccessful in placing the large AJS transfer on the back mudguard on my bike (1954 Model 18S). I think the problem is the double curvature of the area of mudguard where the transfer sits but it may just be me.
Has anyone else had similar problems?
I have sealed the transfers with Humbrol modelmakers paint - has anyone a better way, I have used a simple cellulose paint on all the parts of the bike I have painted with no lacquer.

paul knapp · Post by **paul knapp** » Sat Jul 16, 2005 3:53 pm

G,Day Gordon, you dont say what the problem is re the double curve. Is the transfer tearing when you try to manouver it? or do you have large bubbles alongside the ridge?
Try de-greasing the area with metho first, trim excess paper from across top of transfer, then thouroughly soak in tepid water untill it slides freely, not to sticky, wet the degreased area, centralise with center of guard and gently push up till the edge of transfer is touching in correct position, hold edge down with wet finger then slowly pull backing paper down while stroking out bubbles with wet fingers .Use plenty of water, to make it slide easily and keep fingers wet. Don't let it start to dry untill you have finished. Work from center outwards as you slide the paper down.Remember hold transfer still and pull paper away. When in place, you should not have any bubbles, but if you do you can gently prick them with a sharp needle and smooth them out. After a few minutes you can gently remove any excess glue with a very wet sponge. Remember, once it is pressed down, you can not move it without risking a tear.
Humbrol sounds good, as long as it does not wrinkle. I use a marine varnish, after allowing a day to dry. Always test first. Those transfers are damn expensive down here, AUS$12 each, about GB 5.2 pounds. Non water slide ones are available, just a sticky back, and about a quarter of the price, but there is no room for error with them. Hope this helps!!
Cheers, PAUL

27col · Post by **27col** » Sun Jul 17, 2005 9:01 pm

Hi, Gordon. I have had exactly the same problem as you with the rear mudguard transfer. I applied all the others with complete success, but the rear mudguard transfer just fell to pieces. I cant remember if this was a transfer from the Club spares scheme or one that I got from Classic transfers.I do remember that I had had it a long time before I tried to fit it. However,I got another one and managed to fit it without a problem.

itma · Post by **itma** » Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:35 pm

Water slide transfers will always fall to bits sooner or later, mostly sooner, quite simply because there is hardly any adhesive under them. even if you laquer over the top of them you are only glueing down the outside edges.
The original ones were held on by "gold size", which is a specialist varnish sort of substance originally used for applying gold leaf. The Matchless transfers were printed in reverse, and the size applied to the rear; then another coat over the top[ bit of a precis that] This ensured that the transfer stayed stuck for some time.
an original laurel leaf transfer was stuck on my toolbox in 1975 and it has survived considerable weather, polishing etc
Nobody makes them like that these days so I don`t know what the answer to this problem is.
For any body interested I can supply copies of `how to apply gold size transfers`leaflet.

g4321 · Post by **g4321** » Sun Jul 17, 2005 11:16 pm

Thanks for the replies guys but to clarify a little. The mudguard on my bike has a raised centre riband this coupled with the double curve of the mudguard is causing the problem. Its not the end of the world missing one transfer so the next time I need some spares from the spares scheme I will order yet another 2 transfers and try again(if I get 2 one might work!!!). I may try seperating the A, J and S letters next time BUT if anyone has any bright ideas please let me know

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Mon Jul 18, 2005 6:47 pm

If you have trouble with this one, wait till you get to the large 'Teledraulic' one on the bottom yoke, the double curvature is far worse than the rear mudguard. Christian Gyde helped me out on this one, do a search - 'help forum' 'transfers' and 'Jacobs'

gsneyd · Post by **gsneyd** » Tue Jul 19, 2005 9:25 pm

When I got my transfers from the spares scheme for my G12 the first lot were so thin as to be unusable, the second set were much thicker and therefore easier to apply. Could this be the problem?

g4321 · Post by **g4321** » Wed Jul 20, 2005 12:14 am

Just ordered a New AJS transfer from the spares scheme today & have found another on in my spares box so I have another two to try in the very near future. Spoke to Jim and he suggested using a tissue to damp down the transfer and to leave in water until it started to curl up before trying. he also confirmed humbrol as the varnish to use to seal it.

paul knapp · Post by **paul knapp** » Wed Jul 20, 2005 3:22 am

Just reading about the fork crown double curve causing wrinkles reminded me of a friend who destroyed a couple af tank transfers,[V] [:(!] due to the double curvature, wrinkles and tearing etc,[xx(] then he hit on the idea of heating tank gently with hair dryer (not his) [;)] and while applying transfer, getting his assistant to brush it with warm air from dryer. This made transfer soft and plyable [^] and he was able to smooth it out with his wet fingers and hold in position till it wouldn't move back. Result... [:)] [:D]
Cheers, Paul [8D]