Amal 276 float and needle - worn?

[REW]

I realise my G3L has been running very rich for a while (though it runs well!)and having done a forum search I have taken the float bowl off and dismantled it for a look. Typically in these situations, I am not sure how worn is worn out! So, is it worth buying a new float needle? Or am I better lapping in/seating the original, which has a shiny look to its seating surface?

The float when shaken has a tiny rattle to it which might be internal debris or might even be a tiny amount of petrol inside. Do these puncture of their own accord or is it worth a speculative replacement?

I shall fit in-line fuel filters as there is no doubt some debris in the petrol tank and I don't need this complicating the picture.

Finally - what petrol pipe do people use? Currently I have 10bar pipe as used on modern FI systems and its hefty and hard to work with - any suggestions?

[Eric]

Most floats will have a rattle its usually soldering debris. If it were petrol it would sound like a liquid rather little solid bits if you get my meaning.

If the float needle was not seating correctly I would expect the carb to flood so don't do anything to that yet.

Have you tried lowering the control needle by one notch to see what happens?

I use 1/4" bore rubber petrol hose.

[REW]

Yes Eric, I get your meaning and it does sound like bits.

As for flooding, it does occasionally do that too, but shake the bike or start quick and ride and leakage stops I am beginning to wonder if occasional debris is the culprit...

I haven't changed the needle position as it has run well for the past 3 1/2 seasons, and this is relatively recent.

The pipe I use is 1/4" but very thick walled - what petrol hose are you refering too? Have you a source?

[Eric]

I probably purchased my hose at the Stafford Show but I think Vehicle Wiring Products do it. Click here for a look it seems they have petrol hose but only the braided type. Never mind the link is useful for others to have a look and see if some bits will do for them.

[1608]

Most car accessory shops sell different hoses by the meter.I bought my 1/4" bore rubber fuel line at local shop.It will stay supple, unlike the clear plastic stuff of old.

[J.C.MCARTHUR]

when i got my 16m i didn't have much idea of what had been done to it so started by taking the fuel taps out of the tank and cleaned out the gauze filters on the end of each tap. Lots of nasty stuff stuck in and on them. flushed the tank out as well. New fuel pipe 1/4 ". Carb off and stripped down Float chamber etc. Checked float in petrol bath leave overnight weighed down and see if its sunk ie petrols got into the float. When you put the float back make sure the clips in the float needle if you don't get it located it'll ooze fuel everywhere. Its fairly normal to get a little bit of fuel come out the carb. I usually open the fuel tap give the carb a few tweeks on the tickler and shut the tap off and fire the bike up then turn the fuel tap back on once running. Regards John

[GOLDSTAR]

Just an aside, I had a carb with a plastic float and this continuously flooded slightly, the culprit was the float, a small crack at the joining of the two halves towards the top but very nealy impossible to detect however just enough to allow a small amount of petrol in to upset the balance, replacement float cured it!, it's a good idea to chuck the knackered one away before it goes back into store and you use it subsequently only to get the same problem ,loss of grey cells you see, kind regards

[itma]

turn the float chamber upside down, put the needle in and give it a LIGHT tap to seat it.
do NOT use abrasive
clean all the loose grot out first.
the rattle will be loose solder debris as mentioned.
you will need a fuel line that is not going to be damaged by the junk they are putting in fuel these days.
Get some fuel specific tube.
replacing good old parts with "new" parts that are sh!te is a mistake.

[REW]

I think Ken summarises the route I have decided to take from his advice in previous threads and that of others who have contributed. After a day cleaning and examining its likely the variety of rubbish in the carb parts that has accumulated over the last few years is the cause of the rich running.

As for fuel pipe, I will use some as bought for my BMW two years ago and which has retained its integrity in that time - bit pricey but seems to work. Still, keeping the original copper float compensates!

Thanks all.