Hello again,the free play fore and aft on the rear sprocket of my 1955 G3LS QD wheel is approx. 3/16 of an inch overall . I have stripped the assembly down and most of the wear is due to the holes in the drum being elongated but there is also evidence of wear on the driving pegs. I can get a new sprocket/drum from JSL but this does nothing to address the problem of wear on the pegs,JSL don't have them nor does anyone else that I can find and fitting the one without correcting the other is a bit like fitting new chain to worn sprockets-you don't.
So,how serious is the free play and any thoughts on the pegs?(I did think about turning the pegs through 90 degrees but it sounded too much of a bodge.) Over to you all, please.
Excessive play on rear sprocket
- The Gasoline Hare
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- Biscuit
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Excessive play on rear sprocket
A) My G11 has about 1/8" play and will pull happily in top at less than 20MPH. with no sign of banging or clashing. Carburation?
B)Give the pins a half turn. (Sorry, missed that you said that.)
C) convert to the rubber buffered drive pins - snag new hub and brake drum required.Edited by - Biscuit on 18 Aug 2008 12:10:44 PM
B)Give the pins a half turn. (Sorry, missed that you said that.)
C) convert to the rubber buffered drive pins - snag new hub and brake drum required.Edited by - Biscuit on 18 Aug 2008 12:10:44 PM
- GSAX1
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Excessive play on rear sprocket
Do like this:
1) Bore out the elongated holes in the drum to approx. 19/32 (about 15 mm).
2) Buy some 12.9 quality 8mm allen (socket) head bolts, be sure they are long enough and have a long non-threaded portion below the head.
3) Now cut them to size so they are as long as the original driving pegs.
4) Thread them to 5/16 Cycle (we don't want millimeters, do we?)
5) Now turn up some sleeves. The sleeves should be 19/32 on the outside, 8mm hole straight through for the bolt, and a recess for the allen head so it encloses the head completely.
6) Harden the sleeves.
7) Slide the sleeves over the bolts, fasten bolts in original position with 5/16 Cycle self-locking nuts.
I did this successfully on my own bike. The advantage is that the sleeves can be changed when they are worn.
Hope this helps.
MichaelEdited by - GSAX1 on 18 Aug 2008 1:02:41 PM
1) Bore out the elongated holes in the drum to approx. 19/32 (about 15 mm).
2) Buy some 12.9 quality 8mm allen (socket) head bolts, be sure they are long enough and have a long non-threaded portion below the head.
3) Now cut them to size so they are as long as the original driving pegs.
4) Thread them to 5/16 Cycle (we don't want millimeters, do we?)
5) Now turn up some sleeves. The sleeves should be 19/32 on the outside, 8mm hole straight through for the bolt, and a recess for the allen head so it encloses the head completely.
6) Harden the sleeves.
7) Slide the sleeves over the bolts, fasten bolts in original position with 5/16 Cycle self-locking nuts.
I did this successfully on my own bike. The advantage is that the sleeves can be changed when they are worn.
Hope this helps.
MichaelEdited by - GSAX1 on 18 Aug 2008 1:02:41 PM
- GSAX1
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Excessive play on rear sprocket
Just to illustrate the point:
http://folk.ntnu.no/gregor/Bilder/MC/DSCN1315.JPG
http://folk.ntnu.no/gregor/Bilder/MC/DSCN1319.JPG
Also note that its good practice to mark the drum and the hub when you take off the wheel, and put them back the same way they were upon reassembly.
MichaelEdited by - GSAX1 on 19 Aug 2008 11:29:29 AM
http://folk.ntnu.no/gregor/Bilder/MC/DSCN1315.JPG
http://folk.ntnu.no/gregor/Bilder/MC/DSCN1319.JPG
Also note that its good practice to mark the drum and the hub when you take off the wheel, and put them back the same way they were upon reassembly.
MichaelEdited by - GSAX1 on 19 Aug 2008 11:29:29 AM
- crawsue
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Excessive play on rear sprocket
My QD rear wheel assembly has thick rubber "cush drive" type buffers on the pegs,is it possible to machine the original type to accept the rubbers,might be more cost effective than replacing the whole assembly.PS,great to get Alan's input again.Edited by - crawsue on 19 Aug 2008 4:12:18 PM
Hard work never killed anyone.....but why take the risk?
- The Gasoline Hare
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Excessive play on rear sprocket
You are a lovely lot! Thanks for your various ideas-Michael the photos are ace. Alan, would you advise turning the pins a half turn or just a quarter? There is a little 'fore and aft' wear on the pins but not much. Thanks all.
- Biscuit
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Re: Excessive play on rear sprocket
Resurrecting this old chestnut.. How much play is there on a new (drum & pegs) set up? The pegs on mine don't show much wear, nor do the drum holes look particularly oval, but there is a worrying fore & aft movement which I haven't measured yet - 3/16"? Has anyone any knowledge of the way they left the factory? May be scope for an oversize pins & machining service (not me)! Are the post 57 rubber damped pegs interchangeable with the earlier solid ones?
Jeremy
Jeremy
- clive
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Re: Excessive play on rear sprocket
Sounds like yours are worn. The movement is just annoying rather than dangerous. Russel motors used to sell oversize pins. I dont think the centres are the same so conversion not easy. The hard pins were one year only so not likely a big demand for an oversize pin and machining service. Try rotating your pins through 90 degrees.Jdraper wrote:Resurrecting this old chestnut.. How much play is there on a new (drum & pegs) set up? The pegs on mine don't show much wear, nor do the drum holes look particularly oval, but there is a worrying fore & aft movement which I haven't measured yet - 3/16"? Has anyone any knowledge of the way they left the factory? May be scope for an oversize pins & machining service (not me)! Are the post 57 rubber damped pegs interchangeable with the earlier solid ones?
Jeremy
clive
if it ain't broke don't fix
if it ain't broke don't fix