Can't get into neutral.

[NaughtyNetley]

I am putting clutch back on after engine rebuild. When I tighten the nut holding the clutch basket on the gears are not disengaging. It spins fine in neutral when loose but it's dragging when tightened.
Any ideas?

[1608]

I was about to reply to your earlier post , but you said " sorted". If the clutch hub splines are badly worn ( due to years of over tightening etc)
then the hub may be going onto the shaft too far and chafing on the out put shaft causing difficult gear selection, and catching on the the chain case .
Remedy, new hub. Beware though as they are soft so don't be tempted to over tighten. Good time to replace cush drive rubbers too.

[Mick D]

So not sorted then - see my response to your previous post

Regards Mick

[NaughtyNetley]

Indeed, not sorted. This is my first British bike so flying blund a little. I am just putting the empty basket on and tightening the nut. As soon I the slightest torque is applied over finger tight it is dragging in the gearbox or so it seems to me.

[Mick D]

Hi

Have you replaced the roller bearings? there have been issues caused by the supply of incorrectly dimensioned rollers.

If you've replaced them try assembling with the old ones.

Regards Mick

[SPRIDDLER]

When I tighten the nut holding the clutch basket on the gears are not disengaging.

I can't see how tightening the basket nut would disengage or engage gears........it'll stay in whatever gear it was in before you tightened the nut.

It spins fine in neutral when loose but it's dragging when tightened.

I'm a tad confused here as your post title says you can't get neutral.
I suspect that the dragging is due to the basket binding as a result of mismatched, incorrect or missing parts or incorrect assembly.

[NaughtyNetley]

When in neutral the basket spins freely but as soon as I tighten tge nut it drags and turn the rear wheel. Would ut help to out a video on YouTube?

[1608]

I refer the honorable gentleman to my earlier answer, the hub appears to be contacting the out-put shaft thus binding the g/box internals. Put another way, the splines on the hub have stopped ends which prevent the hub going too far onto the shaft preventing hub contacting g/box.
Further, may I refer you to my article under Tech Tips headed 'Wobbly clutch'.

[NaughtyNetley]

I refer the honorable gentleman to my earlier answer, the hub appears to be contacting the out-put shaft thus binding the g/box internals. Put another way, the splines on the hub have stopped ends which prevent the hub going too far onto the shaft preventing hub contacting g/box.
Further, may I refer you to my article under Tech Tips headed 'Wobbly clutch'.

I now see what you mean and that is indeed the case.
There are "tabs" for want of a better word, at the out end of the basket splines which stop it contacting the output shaft which must be worn on mine.
Thank you all for your input.

[1608]

You don't need a complete hub. You can buy the centre piece ( vanes ) separately. You need to carefully drill the peened fixings only enough to allow removal. Renewal of the cush drive rubbers is a must at this stage and then never need replacing again.