Another Oil Pipe Question

[George Kaplan]

Looking at some of the details on the G3 my attention has recently been on oil pipes.

I have the one at the front sorted out and now need to sort the feed and return from the tank. The tank end is simple but I need the fittings for the engine end as per this image.



Looking at the parts book I have found these two items that I think are the right ones?



Then I looked in the pile of stuff that I got with the various bottom ends that I have and found these two parts:



The item in the top two images and the bottom left looks like 000836 "Release Valve Body". However the one that I have is in awful condition including damaged threads. The problem is that these don't seem to be available new from the usual suppliers. The diaphragm is available so I was pondering on making a new body. I have not tried taking this one apart yet, has anyone on here done so and is it just a hollow bushing with a diaphragm? I assume the diaphragm is held in by the crimps?

The other part, 011924 is available new although is it just an adapter? would the item in the bottom right be Ok in the short term?

John

[Rob Harknett]

011924 goes at the bottom with a fibre washer. Then you fit the pipes, the fitting used as seen on one of your pipes. Make sure the olives are n good condition, as they make the seal. The fitting at the bottom takes the pipe fitting away from the engine. The top pipe goes straight in. You will note you can get on both pipe fittings. If both were on top of each other this would not be possible. No washer at the top. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE TOP FITTING. Just nip it up to seal the olive. Over tighten the top fitting and the crank case will crack. Then you have got a repair problem. I have seen many that have cracked. Make sure yours is OK first. I'll try and show you where they crack. In a picture.

[Rob Harknett]

011924 goes at the bottom with a fibre washer. Then you fit the pipes, the fitting used as seen on one of your pipes. Make sure the olives are n good condition, as they make the seal. The fitting at the bottom takes the pipe fitting away from the engine. The top pipe goes straight in. You will note you can get on both pipe fittings. If both were on top of each other this would not be possible. No washer at the top. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE TOP FITTING. Just nip it up to seal the olive. Over tighten the top fitting and the crank case will crack. Then you have got a repair problem. I have seen many that have cracked. Make sure yours is OK first. I'll try and show you where they crack. In a picture.

Ashampoo_Snap_10 April 2019_00h40m29s_001_.jpg

Here you will see where they crack. The fitting seems to be tapered, or has that effect, the more you tighten it, the more it seems to expand. Its the olive that needs to be good to seal, not so much the tightening. So be warned. Just nip it up. If it leaks, the olive may not be good.

[thornebt]

Isn't that the crankcase breather valve in the photos? Cheers. Bruce.

[ajscomboman]

One thing you want to change before going any further is the stud just to the rear of the oil pipe unions. It should be a special thin head bolt with no washer on it, this will allow clearance for spanners to fit onto the oil union nuts.

[Mick D]

Hi

Bruce is correct, item 000836 is the crank case breather:

CC Breather.png

Here's a photo of the oil line connections:

Oil Lines.png

Can't stress the importance of the advice above: ensure the unions / nipples are spotlessly clean and unmarked by burrs and only nip up the connections, anything else will result in leaks, the temptation is to tweak them up a little to stop the leak and you crack the threaded boss into the crank case - read difficult and potentially expensive repair.

Regards Mick

[George Kaplan]

Thanks to everyone, that makes it much clearer.

Seeing as the item that I have is the crank breather then the threads will be OK. The damaged ones are on the outer end so I think I can make that work.

The caution regarding the tightness of the oil pipe unions is noted. In fact the '53 bottom end that I have came to me looking like this:



So I will certainly be very careful.

The offset hex's makes sense now I see the picture. I have also seen a post advising a reduced thickness nut on the adjacent stud.

Thanks again,

John

[Rob Harknett]

Hi

Bruce is correct, item 000836 is the crank case breather:

CC Breather.png

Here's a photo of the oil line connections:

Oil Lines.png

Can't stress the importance of the advice above: ensure the unions / nipples are spotlessly clean and unmarked by burrs and only nip up the connections, anything else will result in leaks, the temptation is to tweak them up a little to stop the leak and you crack the threaded boss into the crank case - read difficult and potentially expensive repair.

Regards Mick

Micks picture is good as it shows the fittings required. It also shows the clearance to get spanners on them, myself, ajscombiman and Mick referred to. Just be very careful and not over tighten the top one until the crank case cracks. olives nipples call them what you like need to be in good order to seal. Similar are used in plumbing water pipes. As these olives are easy fit, I never re use them. So always use new ones. ( Done that for quite a few cold winters now without getting leaks, after out house plumbing has frozen )

[Duncan]

011924 goes at the bottom with a fibre washer.

Fibre washers were originally used but in 1958 replaced with "015528 - Washer,oil feed union" which probably helps prevent overtightening and splitting the crankcase boss, if you look at Mick D's picture you can just make out the different colours of the union and washer.

[George Kaplan]

hanks for the advice on the washers and the olives guys.

Are the new washers Dowty washers?

John