My G3LS 1953 - restoration project
- Duncan
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- Location: HAMPSHIRE UK
Re: My G3LS 1953 - restoration project
No we are not short, the bikes were experimental oil in frame models and therefore very tall like the early 70's Triumphs
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- Posts: 36
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Re: My G3LS 1953 - restoration project
I have too small engine sprocket 16T, should be 18T . I've looked for it in spares catalogue and there is 014018 (as engine 18T sprocket) and G-31-1 (in gearbox section as 16T sprocket) - is it the same sprocket? why the same part have two catalogue numbers?
Is latter sprocket to AMC gearbox can be used in Burman B52 gearbox?
Is latter sprocket to AMC gearbox can be used in Burman B52 gearbox?
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- Posts: 36
- Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:42 pm
- Location: Poland
Re: My G3LS 1953 - restoration project
Hello.
Working with my motocycle is still in progress, I've not sending messages from few weeks but it doesn't mean that I'm lazy:)
From the last time:
I've found jampot's, toolbox and oiltank
I've gathered all must-have taps & dies - It comes from india
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ywfN1qp7K-Ei8gPBq5TGMgAgZMheMNg1)
I'm thinking that the best first step in restoration is fitting all things together.
Using taps and dies i've rescued vast majority of original studs and bolts - now only two studs mounting engine to frame are metric, rest are BSC/BSF, I had missed only few nuts:
Using taps I've converted few M8 nuts to 5/16 26TPI, using heads of useless rusted bolts i've made ⅜ nuts 26TPI. Also I've made copy of anchor fixing bolt and is now fitted.
Meanwhile I'm preaparing front fork to regeneration. One of sliders had little loss near top, now this loss is filled with aluminium, next time thread will be repaired on lathe. Unfortunately second slider is not perfect also (i've overlooked it last time) - have little crack near hole for stud, now it is ready to be weld.
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_ga3WvotJZEQCXgoA7jtw6dPNXKJCx79)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1C6anRsrL03n_dIUixqBCYj9Ep8uzgO3O)
I've noticed that rear footrests are located at different levels - something must be bended:
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1L5zAeeMHF8ufoBpdyRif_cTsFnX8NIGL)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BTx3UXYH53W0QHp36DADnArKNDjD75Js)
With the help of propane-butane burner I want to repair it but i need to know distance between surfaces of this tubes (red line) - please help. Also photo of each side of motorcycle could be useful (photo from the same distance and similar position perpendicularly to long axis of motocycle) --//edit, not actual, I've found good photo in internet, only distance is now needed:).
Toolboxes.
In spares catalogue (http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Spares_l ... s_List.pdf page 41 No 000639) there are four spacers 11/64' - where should they be mounted?
here:
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11KxErTiCEFUxQKpvVGOW01uMbatgpbIm)
or here (there is a wide gap)?
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1N_e4d0asSk-ag0GbHPjkIRMQK02Rie-s)
or nowhere?
This washers should be made of rubber or iron?
I also wondering how magneto protector (front plate) should be fixed to magneto's basis - from the top or from down, this way is correct?
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19tVU13-dsu-IFNKGLm66dd2FqK6LgARu)
I've found on my frame few modifications, please confirm that the are unoriginal, the will be cut next time:)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UAzMIGNaS6_YJ_cNPTLTbyObDwyvJTKw)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1LlxpOi2QaNfS5K7wdXmADToWZ8GLdkL6)
and the worst thing (DIY mounting for rototiller??)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JDMhWhY00fqKA0blH1T78CbxSJ-nleeC)
Mudguard bolts.
In my box with rusty things i've found strange bolts with short collar below the head (head 13,3mm, collar 3x11mm, rest 5/16' x 26TPI), I'm almost sure that they should be here:
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TlCIa8CFoWkJ7OvKOu6Sc0OFSaNLxv3J)
Together four identical bolts, could you confirm? How they should be galvanizing - chrome or zinc?
This is my battery carrier:
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10nJEy4w4mUwXytPQYjN8e077v2sBaWZg)
part in red circle is (probably) modification, how should looks original battery carrier?
Like this?:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Matc ... Swm~daUIvi
Puzzle - anybody knows what's that?
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1FG-FqxTkuT9ascnMo19xSuldGRH7GQol)
Working with my motocycle is still in progress, I've not sending messages from few weeks but it doesn't mean that I'm lazy:)
From the last time:
I've found jampot's, toolbox and oiltank
I've gathered all must-have taps & dies - It comes from india
I'm thinking that the best first step in restoration is fitting all things together.
Using taps and dies i've rescued vast majority of original studs and bolts - now only two studs mounting engine to frame are metric, rest are BSC/BSF, I had missed only few nuts:
Using taps I've converted few M8 nuts to 5/16 26TPI, using heads of useless rusted bolts i've made ⅜ nuts 26TPI. Also I've made copy of anchor fixing bolt and is now fitted.
Meanwhile I'm preaparing front fork to regeneration. One of sliders had little loss near top, now this loss is filled with aluminium, next time thread will be repaired on lathe. Unfortunately second slider is not perfect also (i've overlooked it last time) - have little crack near hole for stud, now it is ready to be weld.
I've noticed that rear footrests are located at different levels - something must be bended:
With the help of propane-butane burner I want to repair it but i need to know distance between surfaces of this tubes (red line) - please help. Also photo of each side of motorcycle could be useful (photo from the same distance and similar position perpendicularly to long axis of motocycle) --//edit, not actual, I've found good photo in internet, only distance is now needed:).
Toolboxes.
In spares catalogue (http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Spares_l ... s_List.pdf page 41 No 000639) there are four spacers 11/64' - where should they be mounted?
here:
or here (there is a wide gap)?
or nowhere?
This washers should be made of rubber or iron?
I also wondering how magneto protector (front plate) should be fixed to magneto's basis - from the top or from down, this way is correct?
I've found on my frame few modifications, please confirm that the are unoriginal, the will be cut next time:)
and the worst thing (DIY mounting for rototiller??)
Mudguard bolts.
In my box with rusty things i've found strange bolts with short collar below the head (head 13,3mm, collar 3x11mm, rest 5/16' x 26TPI), I'm almost sure that they should be here:
Together four identical bolts, could you confirm? How they should be galvanizing - chrome or zinc?
This is my battery carrier:
part in red circle is (probably) modification, how should looks original battery carrier?
Like this?:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Matc ... Swm~daUIvi
Puzzle - anybody knows what's that?
-
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:42 pm
- Location: Poland
Re: My G3LS 1953 - restoration project
The project is not dead.
I've done a lot of things during last few months.
Chronologicly:
I removed all modyfications of my frame:
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=15yLNplz9RI5NOKZwacDYWuSzetK2TlYF)
Using heat and lever I've bended one of these element, now each end is in the same level. Bolts and studs easy comes in and out through the holes – so everything is ok.
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1PJ67h8HOhU7aSYFk8EOYxlJpikYm4Wib)
Rear fork had a fracture in the middle which was repaired by terrible weld and thick steel plate, so i,ve decited to cut it off. Turner made for me tube which was welded in proper place.
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dtgqYmTVI3sq3Oc_MaFXFMpXJThwRPTo)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1O8a0ZqnvKmiW0twIQNm7UWbjolkHP5yX)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1yGWDSWBNUZjC1sk2EvrDeiCJv0JcefYD)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HHazwczYqOfpRuKfImTQ-ETaVuC8vf1N)
This is my cheap lathe:)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1cx16GnRZsOYlhFbDeDMlzBi4ckYtZvM1)
But is good enough to make bolts and studs.
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1i_DtDEXUJ5m9F_Q4e9eyn9DjYaPnqsdt)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nX2qG3rlB7kIf1708-ruNgf3HKsRZ6PX)
For gearbox cover
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gknzJl4OM_TkEHRX5RMdFu9OT0u_jvkq)
And for front forks:
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=12SMREmI8wiLLs-zgAhlf6RnWMbBYt2xF)
Frame parts have been powder coated
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17lt9s17wfoaPvb-DGH9tEwesnR2yANCi)
Anyone knows what is the function of this hole?
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Q6Nd2Jsqgo8-hJuvIwfPsJqRd3CaJE73)
Rear hub also has been assembled
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lm23c6Tz-YhK4vOzkza7gclh4C7Xx76U)
But in front hub is serious problem, axle is bended and there is a fracture/crack on bearing sleeve – and this can't be repaired. But I have an idea: make new axle which will be adjusted to cooperate with standard ball bearings – If everything will be ok with this idea I'll show You result in future.
Jampots.
Rear suspension it is considered as hard to disassemble without making special tools (to make them lathe and other professional stuff are needed).
I've used few beech planks (oak also can be used) with halfholes to hold it tight in vice (making it lasts 20min).
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10WvfftbJ-7igWQrTHg2b-XlzfE2-gpc6)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1AcAvGFDGEaItDwuVZdMS7lqn6k5_cFeC)
Sadly previous owner of this jampots damaged every thread, but now they are repaired – my turner is great professionalist.
After cleaning, reboring cylinders inside (surfaces were terrible worn), and hard-chroming and polishing the stanchions. Bushes are made of polyoxymethylene – I think this is much better material than original plastic and hard steel bush.
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Z5bAD2Vj99JbH0uV2KIgDUc17G04U-Sq)
I've also made rubber bushes (material is poliurethane + graphite)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17sJMGm1NWjvEyHdIvBZ5_g6QAVAp0Mjr)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1f5UZw0lxZs-qjr0EfCdbt6tZNaqissos)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1MyzeuiKOAvIZ3ccQxCRurzYpkJ-9R8cm)
Repairing clutch cover.
My clutch cover is powder-coating except this riddled „lidâ€. Long time I wondering what will be the best way to repairing it. I've decited that tinning is the best, despite I've never done it before.
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1yQSEFvOA6TGXVJMqcafajtFlPRuXPN_A)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1jv-i4FuEPj9VOeRwRrOhWKUVtuYg4Ho8)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1G3x9OyhFDR0n60ClXhvW0ZlC7O3dhjRu)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11QROMDdtOY0Sjs4aLEeakFc_J_YWGZ9o)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1xM0hc6gluwdSO6Lovn9EvGsU73zcfb3_)
Now that surface is good enought for filling and after that for painting.
And last current photo of rame.
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1pVsDjysKCAPtYSlviyR7sXKUdIGsVMUZ)
What will be next? Probably spoking the wheels, in photo above you can see stainless rims and spokes. I must also repaired chain cover (needs welding) and battery box.
In previous post I've made a red circle on part of battery box suggesting that isnt original - but I was wrong. Unoriginal is probably only the top of my batterybox (so if someone have a photo of this detail – please let me know).
I've done a lot of things during last few months.
Chronologicly:
I removed all modyfications of my frame:
Using heat and lever I've bended one of these element, now each end is in the same level. Bolts and studs easy comes in and out through the holes – so everything is ok.
Rear fork had a fracture in the middle which was repaired by terrible weld and thick steel plate, so i,ve decited to cut it off. Turner made for me tube which was welded in proper place.
This is my cheap lathe:)
But is good enough to make bolts and studs.
For gearbox cover
And for front forks:
Frame parts have been powder coated
Anyone knows what is the function of this hole?
Rear hub also has been assembled
But in front hub is serious problem, axle is bended and there is a fracture/crack on bearing sleeve – and this can't be repaired. But I have an idea: make new axle which will be adjusted to cooperate with standard ball bearings – If everything will be ok with this idea I'll show You result in future.
Jampots.
Rear suspension it is considered as hard to disassemble without making special tools (to make them lathe and other professional stuff are needed).
I've used few beech planks (oak also can be used) with halfholes to hold it tight in vice (making it lasts 20min).
Sadly previous owner of this jampots damaged every thread, but now they are repaired – my turner is great professionalist.
After cleaning, reboring cylinders inside (surfaces were terrible worn), and hard-chroming and polishing the stanchions. Bushes are made of polyoxymethylene – I think this is much better material than original plastic and hard steel bush.
I've also made rubber bushes (material is poliurethane + graphite)
Repairing clutch cover.
My clutch cover is powder-coating except this riddled „lidâ€. Long time I wondering what will be the best way to repairing it. I've decited that tinning is the best, despite I've never done it before.
Now that surface is good enought for filling and after that for painting.
And last current photo of rame.
What will be next? Probably spoking the wheels, in photo above you can see stainless rims and spokes. I must also repaired chain cover (needs welding) and battery box.
In previous post I've made a red circle on part of battery box suggesting that isnt original - but I was wrong. Unoriginal is probably only the top of my batterybox (so if someone have a photo of this detail – please let me know).
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- Member
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- Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 1:00 am
- Location: WEST SUSSEX UK
Re: My G3LS 1953 - restoration project
Excellent progress!
You mentioned in an earlier post that your engine had the 16T drive sprocket instead of the standard 18T and from the extra plates added to the frame and the repaired top rail it seems that some sort of heavy trailer or framework was fitted to the bike.
An illustration of the battery carrier is shown on page 36 of the 1953 spares list:
http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Spares_l ... ingles.pdf
On my '54 G3LS the hole in the frame stud has a tapped thread and I use it fix the battery earth lead.
Restoring the rear Jampots and disassembling tool is covered in articles here:
http://archives.jampot.dk/Technical/Sus ... around.pdf
And here:
http://archives.jampot.dk/Technical/Sus ... ampots.pdf
I see you have resourcefully made up bolts and bushes etc. but bear in mind that most of these are available from suppliers Club Spares or AMC Classic Spares.
There was a cassette type replacement front axle complete assembly (axle, bearings etc.) from Andrew Engineering (now retired so no longer manufacturing) but I believe there are plans to remanufacture this unit in the very near future.
Regarding the damaged front chaincase bulge (to cover the drive axle shock absorber) I have known it to be replaced with a suitably sized tin substitute (e.g. the cap of an aerosol can or similar).
Good luck.
You mentioned in an earlier post that your engine had the 16T drive sprocket instead of the standard 18T and from the extra plates added to the frame and the repaired top rail it seems that some sort of heavy trailer or framework was fitted to the bike.
An illustration of the battery carrier is shown on page 36 of the 1953 spares list:
http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Spares_l ... ingles.pdf
On my '54 G3LS the hole in the frame stud has a tapped thread and I use it fix the battery earth lead.
Restoring the rear Jampots and disassembling tool is covered in articles here:
http://archives.jampot.dk/Technical/Sus ... around.pdf
And here:
http://archives.jampot.dk/Technical/Sus ... ampots.pdf
I see you have resourcefully made up bolts and bushes etc. but bear in mind that most of these are available from suppliers Club Spares or AMC Classic Spares.
There was a cassette type replacement front axle complete assembly (axle, bearings etc.) from Andrew Engineering (now retired so no longer manufacturing) but I believe there are plans to remanufacture this unit in the very near future.
Regarding the damaged front chaincase bulge (to cover the drive axle shock absorber) I have known it to be replaced with a suitably sized tin substitute (e.g. the cap of an aerosol can or similar).
Good luck.
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Last edited by SPRIDDLER on Sat Jun 02, 2018 8:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
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- Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:42 pm
- Location: Poland
Re: My G3LS 1953 - restoration project
Thank you SPRIDDLER. This hole in stud really wonder me:), it is good place for earth lead, in the middle od motorcycle and near to the battery. I also have thread there, BA.
Photo that you attached good shows shape of battery box plate, so I should repaired it without problems, (I don't know why I forgot about catalogue:).
In last 30min I've viewed spares catalogues from 1948 to 1956, and battery box looks identical in this period of time, without this ugly triangular plate which is the basis for fix voltage regulator. But in internet I've seen a lot of pictures Matchless and AJS motorcycles with the same type of battery box that I have (in attachments). It indicates that were more types of battery boxes, not included in catalogues. Strange.
I made up bolts because I forgot order it from AMC spares. Two months ago I've ordered a lot of things such as clutch plates, BA screws, gearbox indicator, 18T sprocket etc etc. Ordering again 5 bolts and after some time 2 studs isn't economically justified:) besides making bolts are simple and enjoyable.
Photo that you attached good shows shape of battery box plate, so I should repaired it without problems, (I don't know why I forgot about catalogue:).
In last 30min I've viewed spares catalogues from 1948 to 1956, and battery box looks identical in this period of time, without this ugly triangular plate which is the basis for fix voltage regulator. But in internet I've seen a lot of pictures Matchless and AJS motorcycles with the same type of battery box that I have (in attachments). It indicates that were more types of battery boxes, not included in catalogues. Strange.
I made up bolts because I forgot order it from AMC spares. Two months ago I've ordered a lot of things such as clutch plates, BA screws, gearbox indicator, 18T sprocket etc etc. Ordering again 5 bolts and after some time 2 studs isn't economically justified:) besides making bolts are simple and enjoyable.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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Re: My G3LS 1953 - restoration project
Your battery carrier is exactly the same as mine. Once it has its voltage regulator fitted it wont look so bad.
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- Posts: 36
- Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:42 pm
- Location: Poland
Re: My G3LS 1953 - restoration project
I've finished a lot of things during last half year.
Most important is paint work, I've done it personally using spray gun, maybe it does not look as perfectly as from professional painting workshop but for me looks good enought, Achievement of experience with this work is also valuable, I predict it will be usefull in future.
I've also assembled front and rear wheel, but with problems. Spokes that I've ordered have slightly bigger heads so they won't fits well in hub's holes, I had to correct neck angle all internal spokes (40pcs), after that I spoked wheels correctly.
Most pleasurable for me was work with brakes. I show how easy you can do it yourself.
First I've cleaned brake shoes using brush and kitchen detergent, after that mild sandpaper.
shoes before cleaning + strengthened brake belt - appropriate to riveting have steel grid in one side
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=14iS3o3-Snmk1X3XbSmy4jNFa5sfc_CkO)
brake lining is glued to shoe by epoxy resin - riveting is much easier when lining is hard fixed
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lku_d4Oc9gEITqVbACL3SZq4spfi59JX)
Simplest is converting common rivets to tube type rivets by remove "core". Tube rivets looks nice contrary to common blind rivets:)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1SXsPTFLBLdN9o53v5lVWvBb0shN4xpS_/img%5D%0A%5Bimg%5Dhttps://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19W7hBBrHjzmJrETU7qbhPbA86e-bElIm)
nice eye after banging something sharp to the bottom hole
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lku_d4Oc9gEITqVbACL3SZq4spfi59JX)
Springs had been cleaned by metal brush and boiled with bluing solution (NaOH+KNO3+NaNO2) and after with engine oil
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nbGmhZ-37GQ_W1UuAkezQslf5W7Q2fKR)
Finally:
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1GPamvVw7aJhRbFpEUM_-Io-KjsMIyZDA)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Ss2dDMSR0TJf6rQ4Liw59V7AE6rdIufQ)
And my idea of front wheel bearing replacement
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1KQXozJEvdOwQPOV-ImJFktTBlP5vFUaN)
technical drawing is here, it is open-source:), but remember that is prototype, however everything fits perfectly
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view ... rtuh1EQOiU
teledraulic fork is also assambled, with polyoxymethylene bushes, I hope will be better than original plastic and steel bush
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JGrpo6hwEm0aQ42QY-uzrio2gKri4g0t)
And the most current view of my MG3LS
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UIrKxI8s_NZqqbzx8gwVWq8BYtKBiXln)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1kk8QCwnCB7LcKb2XblZCDuopLToFahLB)
![Image](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11jjBQDejTKCmgnSerEYaZ8hCgmycIlLm)
Now I'm waiting for parcel with stuff from GB, during this time I'm going to start renovation of gearbox. First impression during disassemble is wear of bronze bushes, anyone knows what kind of bronze is used as a material for this bushes? (phospor bronze, beryllium cooper, Al-Fe-bronze? or maybe something else?)
//Sorry for the mess in my garage, but I can't work any other way:(
Most important is paint work, I've done it personally using spray gun, maybe it does not look as perfectly as from professional painting workshop but for me looks good enought, Achievement of experience with this work is also valuable, I predict it will be usefull in future.
I've also assembled front and rear wheel, but with problems. Spokes that I've ordered have slightly bigger heads so they won't fits well in hub's holes, I had to correct neck angle all internal spokes (40pcs), after that I spoked wheels correctly.
Most pleasurable for me was work with brakes. I show how easy you can do it yourself.
First I've cleaned brake shoes using brush and kitchen detergent, after that mild sandpaper.
shoes before cleaning + strengthened brake belt - appropriate to riveting have steel grid in one side
brake lining is glued to shoe by epoxy resin - riveting is much easier when lining is hard fixed
Simplest is converting common rivets to tube type rivets by remove "core". Tube rivets looks nice contrary to common blind rivets:)
nice eye after banging something sharp to the bottom hole
Springs had been cleaned by metal brush and boiled with bluing solution (NaOH+KNO3+NaNO2) and after with engine oil
Finally:
And my idea of front wheel bearing replacement
technical drawing is here, it is open-source:), but remember that is prototype, however everything fits perfectly
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view ... rtuh1EQOiU
teledraulic fork is also assambled, with polyoxymethylene bushes, I hope will be better than original plastic and steel bush
And the most current view of my MG3LS
Now I'm waiting for parcel with stuff from GB, during this time I'm going to start renovation of gearbox. First impression during disassemble is wear of bronze bushes, anyone knows what kind of bronze is used as a material for this bushes? (phospor bronze, beryllium cooper, Al-Fe-bronze? or maybe something else?)
//Sorry for the mess in my garage, but I can't work any other way:(
Last edited by sztyga20 on Sat Dec 29, 2018 9:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: My G3LS 1953 - restoration project
Hi, interesting thread. If you plan to make up your own front axle, make sure you use the right steel. EN16 is the old UK designation for suitable stuff, an internet search will give you the European equivalent. I recommend you put a wanted advert on this forum, the front axles often turn up at UK autojumbles for £10 or so but you take a chance on them being straight. If you are still looking in January PM me and I will look for one at the next Kempton jumble. The gearbox bushes most likely to wear are the 2 large bushes in the output gear (up to 6 thou play is acceptable), they are available from Jampot spares. The others are not critical but are also available. Cheers, Andy
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- Location: Poland
Re: My G3LS 1953 - restoration project
I've corrected links to pictures in previous post.
I've choosen steel 40HM for front axle. Steel 40H had been used as front axle in polish heavy single motorcycle Junak
![Image](http://www.vintagebike.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/1958-classic-junak-m07-image-500x375.jpg)
40HM steel with molybdenum should be even better.
I've choosen steel 40HM for front axle. Steel 40H had been used as front axle in polish heavy single motorcycle Junak
![Image](http://www.vintagebike.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/1958-classic-junak-m07-image-500x375.jpg)
40HM steel with molybdenum should be even better.