Securing the wiring

Information relating to the Matchless G3 or AJS Model 16 350cc Heavyweight
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Pharisee
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Securing the wiring

Post by Pharisee »

How do you guys secure the wiring harness to the underside of the rear mudguard?
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Groily
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Re: Securing the wiring

Post by Groily »

Aren't there any bendy clips under there to hold the leads?
Maybe not, as they can rust away or break off and leave dangly festoons under there.
Given that a lot of wiring melt-downs occur because of a failure of the harness in that area or round the brake light switch (which many people leave unfused) might be worth thinking if there are any unobtrusive ways to get the wires to the rear without going under the mudguard all the way . . . as in 'along the inside of a stay' and then just popping up from below for the last bit, or even sneaking into the light assembly quietly from the upper side. Just me, but I never have those leads go under the 'guards any more, due to too many disasters, especially two-up.
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Rob Harknett
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Re: Securing the wiring

Post by Rob Harknett »

On your 55 model for example. The rear mudguard has two tags on the inside protruding upwards from the rolled edge. These may have rusted and broke off. From memory one either side of the joint. It is also at the area of the joint, you have bullet connectors in the cable. So the cable can be pulled apart to remove the read end /no. plate section. You may be lucky and fine them??? If not spot weald on new tags. If that's a problem, you may be able to make a tin strip with tags cut, securing the strip on the inside of the guard, via the rear grab handle bolt under the washer and nut. These tags are in a position to hold the wires as far away as possible from the tyre. So you do need the wire to run along the top of the rolled beaded edge. Looks like there is a new posting with the same info, but I'll post this also now I've typed it.
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Rob Harknett
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Re: Securing the wiring

Post by Rob Harknett »

Groily wrote:Aren't there any bendy clips under there to hold the leads?
Maybe not, as they can rust away or break off and leave dangly festoons under there.
Given that a lot of wiring melt-downs occur because of a failure of the harness in that area or round the brake light switch (which many people leave unfused) might be worth thinking if there are any unobtrusive ways to get the wires to the rear without going under the mudguard all the way . . . as in 'along the inside of a stay' and then just popping up from below for the last bit, or even sneaking into the light assembly quietly from the upper side. Just me, but I never have those leads go under the 'guards any more, due to too many disasters, especially two-up.
Depends on the year model re stays. The factory method I have given for 55 never caused any problems for my 55 since I first owned one in 1956. No fuses fitted then either. You do need to keep an eye on the wire. Often I have found mine have come out from the tag. This allows the wire to drop on the tyre. Brake light wires can get damaged by pillion riders feet on them. Some else just to keep an eye on to prevent failure there.
Mick D
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Re: Securing the wiring

Post by Mick D »

Hi

The clips were still there on my mudguard so I used them.

If the clips are no longer present I'd utilise 'P' clips at the mudguard / number plate attachments backed up by self adhesive cable tie bases on any longer unsupported runs.

Of course, if the mudguard has yet to be painted I'd spot weld replacement clips on.

Regards Mick
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Pharisee
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Re: Securing the wiring

Post by Pharisee »

The mudguards that came with my basket case were non-standard alloy items that were bent and corroded to the point where they went straight into the re-cycling bin. I've sourced some reproduction guards from India. They actually aren't that bad... they fit acceptably well and the bolt holes line up well enough. They won't need a great deal of fettling but there are no wiring harness clips. At the moment they are just un-painted raw steel so now is the time to sort out some sort of cable attachment. I'm not putting together a trailer queen or a museum exhibit; this bike will be ridden so I'll be fitting indicators. That means 5 wires in the harness to the rear end. I'll keep the diameter down to a minimum by using 0.5mm sq. 'thin wall' cable (11 amp rating) to the LED bulbs. I had thought about brazing a few sections of tube along the underside and running the cables (inside a plastic sleeve) through them.
I'm from the Fens.... Gimme six.
Mick D
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Re: Securing the wiring

Post by Mick D »

Hi

I'd shy away from brazing, it will more than likely cause the mudguard to distort locally due to expansion.

I'd also shy away from running the wiring through tubes unless the tubes have a sufficient bore to allow the loom to be withdrawn intact with it's terminations etc.

If you make clips out of mild steel strap they can be MIG puddle welded with just a quick dab of weld which won't cause distortion and can be placed to suit your requirements.

Regards Mick
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Rob Harknett
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Re: Securing the wiring

Post by Rob Harknett »

tube would add to bulk, it would also need two tubes with connectors mid way to allow the cables to split for removing the back end. Why not keep the wiring standard, brake and stop wires on the nearside/left.. If you are adding tabs. Run the additional indicator wires on the off side / right. No earth wire needed like some people seem to need. Earth usually fails due to neglect, mainly rusty fittings joining the no. plate to the guard. It particular if you also have beading fitted. Also paint jobs where loads of paint is on parts that should be bare metal to earth.
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ajscomboman
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Re: Securing the wiring

Post by ajscomboman »

I bent some ali strip up and JB welded them into position held with duck tape till it set. 8yrs down the line they're still on there and as they're ali there's been little corrosion, it also avoids the risk of distortion.
Groily
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Re: Securing the wiring

Post by Groily »

Quote: Depends on the year model re stays. The factory method I have given for 55 never caused any problems for my 55 since I first owned one in 1956. No fuses fitted then either. You do need to keep an eye on the wire. Often I have found mine have come out from the tag. This allows the wire to drop on the tyre. Brake light wires can get damaged by pillion riders feet on them. Some else just to keep an eye on to prevent failure there.[/quote]

For stays read 'stays or grab handles or other bits of bent tin'.

Otherwise . . .Exactly! Without a fuse on a brake light direct off the battery, it's 2am and it's bucketing down and the tyre rubs through . . . and you checked before you set out . . . and the passenger (who looked good when the evening was young but now wishes you had a car and could get 'er home in one bit and in the dry and is yelling "And if you think you're coming in for a "coffee", forget it") is why I don't like the wires where they were put originally Rob, on any machine!!
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