Wobbly headlight

Information relating to the Matchless G3 or AJS Model 16 350cc Heavyweight
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Group Leader
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Wobbly headlight

Post by Group Leader »

I noticed today after a runout on my 16MS today that there appeared to be some movement in the headlamp mounting sleeves on the forks and hence I have a wobbly headlamp.

A quick search revealed this article http://archives.jampot.dk/Technical/Sus ... _1965).pdf which suggests that the rubber washers under the top yoke have perished.

Although a temporary dodge is suggested for fixing this without disassembly would I be correct in thinking that the washers could be replaced (thus doing a proper job) by just dropping the forks out of the yokes a bit by removal of the top fixings and then releasing the grip of the lower yoke? I don't want to get into actually stripping the forks at the moment ('cos I'm having too much fun riding it). Looks like a (another) call to my friendly, local spares provider is required!

TIA

Alan
1953 AJS 16MS, 1939 BSA 250 and a 1/3 scale Sopwith Triplane but that's another story ..... :lol:
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Pharisee
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Re: Wobbly headlight

Post by Pharisee »

You don't need to drop the forks out of the lower yoke. You will need to secure the lower yoke to the frame, however, if you don't want 28 little steel balls falling all over your garage floor. The photo shows my Triumph T90 but the principal is the same. Having secured that, just remove the top yoke carefully... there are 28 ball there too. Slide off the shrouds, replace the rubber washers and put the shrouds, balls and top yoke back... easy, peasy!!

Good luck :D

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Mick D
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Re: Wobbly headlight

Post by Mick D »

Hi

Yes your proposal will work fine, (providing nothing is seized / rusted). With the bike on the centre stand block up the front wheel so as it can't drop or steer - take off the upper yoke. The rubber washers sit under the alloy rings at the base of the covers.

Don't loosen the lower yoke pinch bolts, if you do the springs will decompress and you'll be looking for a fork assembly tool ;)

When it comes to fishing up the damper rods I found a telescopic 'Poundland' magnet works fine but you may feel more comfortable attaching a couple of lengths of thin wire as you remove the caps.

Regards Mick
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Re: Wobbly headlight

Post by Group Leader »

Many thanks for the speedy and informative replies chaps!

That's what I like about a good internet forum (heaven knows, there are some rubbish ones on the net).

Anyway, looks like I'll be dropping by to see my friend Steve again very shortly.

Thanks once again.

Alan
1953 AJS 16MS, 1939 BSA 250 and a 1/3 scale Sopwith Triplane but that's another story ..... :lol:
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Pharisee
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Re: Wobbly headlight

Post by Pharisee »

Mick D wrote:
When it comes to fishing up the damper rods I found a telescopic 'Poundland' magnet works fine but you may feel more comfortable attaching a couple of lengths of thin wire as you remove the caps.

Regards Mick
I found that a 5/16" x 26 tpi nut fits nicely into the end of a length of 15mm plumbers copper pipe (with a little help from a hammer). That screws nicely onto the end of the damper rod and make retrieval easy. I tried a telescopic magnet but it wasn't strong enough to lift the damper up through the oil. Best not to drop them down the tube in the first place :)

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clanger9
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Re: Wobbly headlight

Post by clanger9 »

Agreed - if you drop the rods down, they can be tricky to pull out again. Like Pharisee, I've had mixed results with a magnet. Sometimes they'll pull up, sometimes not.
I usually tie a short loop of string around each damper rod and let them drop. It's then easy to fish them out again with a suitable hook...
1989 Moto Morini Dart 350
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raffles
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Re: Wobbly headlight

Post by raffles »

lock a couple of nuts one only on half the thread on to the steering damper rod then insert it into the staunchon wind it onto the
damper rod pull up job done
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Re: Wobbly headlight

Post by 56G80S »

Wire coat hanger , straightened out. "U" shape formed at one end then bent at 90 degrees and hook them up. Only takes a couple of goes. I have also used the magnet approach but "sticktion" can be too strong.

I might try Raffles trick as I have never re-fitted the steering damper and I know where it is (miracle!).

Johnny B
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