Rear Brake Switch

Information relating to the Matchless G3 or AJS Model 16 350cc Heavyweight
Ixy
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Joined: Sat Aug 03, 2002 1:00 am
Location: SOUTH YORKSHIRE UK

Rear Brake Switch

Post by Ixy »

Hello Everybody . . . Summer is just around the corner!

Does anybody know how the rear brake switch fixes to my Matchless G3LS 1961 [?]
It did have one fitted which melted, but it was a Heath Robinson type and was mounted to the rear footrest bolt on a small right angled bracket. I've ordered from Jampot Spares a rear brake light switch (022031P) together with a stop lamp switch bracket (022032). The switch mounts on the bracket OK, but I can't fathom out where exactly the bracket mounts to and how the switch operates. It's a shallow angled bracket with a big hole in one end.
Any advice greatly appreciated.

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Merlin
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Rear Brake Switch

Post by Merlin »

Hi Colin,
I have a 1956 G3L with rear stop lamp switch and if it helps I could photograph same and e-mail it to you
Cheers
Stuart

Chemists do it with test tubes
Ixy
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Joined: Sat Aug 03, 2002 1:00 am
Location: SOUTH YORKSHIRE UK

Rear Brake Switch

Post by Ixy »

Yes please Stuart, photo of brake switch arrangement would be very useful.
I've trudged t'internet but 99% of photos of singles are took from other side (exhaust side) as it looks nicer!
Eric
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Rear Brake Switch

Post by Eric »

I have not checked out any of the part numbers yet this is just a quick reply. If you have what I think you have, that large hole will fit upon the rear wheel spacer somewhere see what the photo tells you if you still have a problem come back. There was not an original fitment brake light only an optional extra at the time of your bike so it had to be an add on rather than built in somewhere as they are today.

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Colin F
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Rear Brake Switch

Post by Colin F »

The bracket should be the correct size to fit the rear wheel spindle. The spring should then go forward from there and connect onto the brake rod at an appropriate point. As Eric says these were optional extras when the bikes were new, this set up was the method available from the factory but a lot of bikes had the "Heath Robinson" method you describe.
Eric
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Rear Brake Switch

Post by Eric »

Here is a more detailed reply now I have had the chance to have a look. These details are for a standard not QD wheel. Remove the Nut, Washer and Spacer from the rear wheel spindle. The spacer should have a step machined on one end that will fit into the large hole of the bracket you now have. The bracket then goes on first with its extension pointing down and the shallow angle you describe pointing inward towards the wheel, then the spacer, with its step locating in the large hole, then the washer and nut. The stop light switch should ressemble a rectangular box with a moving slide within and two mounting lugs, this is fitted inboard of the bracket so that the end of the slide with the hole for the spring points toward the front of the bike. Hook one end the spring into the slide and the other end to a little clamp you should have for the brake rod. You can adjust the whole thing by moving the brake rod fixing back and forth as required. Each time you adjust the chain or the rear brake you will need to re-set the brake light swithch spring position. Hope this helps.

Ixy
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Joined: Sat Aug 03, 2002 1:00 am
Location: SOUTH YORKSHIRE UK

Rear Brake Switch

Post by Ixy »

Yes, thanks, it's all making sense now.
I'll try it tonight.
Ixy
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Joined: Sat Aug 03, 2002 1:00 am
Location: SOUTH YORKSHIRE UK

Rear Brake Switch

Post by Ixy »

Eric,
The bracket mounts on OK facing downwards, with the angle facing inwards. It mounts on the large diameter threaded part of the spindle so that there is the frame, then the thick washer with a flat on one side (flat facing the front), then the bracket, then the spacer (screwed on), then the washer and nut.
Are you sure the switch is supposed to mount on the inside on the bracket [?]
If it does, then the terminals are at the top and the spring pull is at the bottom, which does'nt work very well as the spring is pulling up at a steep angle to the brake rod.
It works much better if the switch is on the outside of the bracket, with the terminals at the bottom and the spring pull at the top. The pull is at a much shallower angle so it operates much smoother.
I'm going to the Classic Bike Show next weekend so will hopefully see some there?
Colin.
Eric
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Rear Brake Switch

Post by Eric »

Colin the last information you posted has confused me, [:(] I am almost 100% certain you must have a QD (Quickly Detachable) wheel? [;)] A QD wheel allows you to remove the spindle by undoing the last nut on the nearside of the bike and pulling out the spindle from the offside of the bike. This will permit removal of the rear wheel leaving the rear sprocket, chain, brake drum and brake all insitu upon a dummy hollow spindle and is not commonly found on our bikes as it was only fitted to De-Luxe models or as an optional extra. [;)] I think the Spares Scheme may now be selling all the bits required to convert standard rear wheels to QD perhaps someone can confirm this.[?] The part that I can’t understand is you describe a thick washer with a flat on one side (Flat facing the front). Would this be better described as thick washer with a recess machined in it, with the recess facing outward. [;)] If so did the screwed on spacer originally fit into this recess? Or has the screwed on spacer got a step down machined on it that fits into this recess? If so does this step down also fit into the large hole of the switch bracket? Is the thick washer the same thickness as the switch bracket? If it is you probably don’t need the thick washer anymore, but of course don’t throw it away. [;)] By chance this months Jampot has a picture from Ron Hughes on page 11 that shows two brake light switch brackets that have been modified for some other purpose, I assume that except for the tubes they are the same as yours [?] All I have working out from the frame is the switch bracket that fits over the wheel spindle, a non screwed spacer with a step down on it that fits over the spindle and into the large hole of the bracket, a washer over the spindle, a nut screwed onto the spindle. I can still remove the spindle as described but to get the wheel out I have to remove the chain, because the sprocket and brake drum are bolted to the wheel. There is still some debate about whether or not I should be then able to get the wheel out and leave the brake plate and brake behind. But unless I can get the bike right up in the air on a bike bench I seem to have to take everything off including at least one silencer. [V] (What happened to hinged or detachable rear mudguards?) The part no you gave for the switch as 22031P indicates that it is pattern (not original) switch, similar to the original Lucas one, so that may have differences, but the ones I have seen at shows are the same as mine. I have a genuine Lucas item. For me the switch has to go inboard on the bracket because I have a G9 (Twin) with megaphone silencers, it cannot go anywhere else, as it would foul upon the silencer. When mounted inboard the terminals for push in bullet wiring connectors are at the bottom. I doubt that you will see what you have at the show, a QD hub is fairly rare and an original type brake light bracket with switch and QD hub is almost unique I would think. Or lets see how many other people can post that they have this on their bikes. [:)] If you would like to try emailing me via the forum I can then email you some pictures I have taken that shows all, but it will not be exactly the same as yours. [8D]

Ixy
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Joined: Sat Aug 03, 2002 1:00 am
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Rear Brake Switch

Post by Ixy »

Eric,
Did you receive my email asking for your email address, I can't send photos via Jampot, will have to send direct.

thanks
Colin.
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