top end

Information relating to the Matchless G5 or AJS Model 8 350cc Lightweight
56G80S
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Re: top end

Post by 56G80S »

Mick D is spot on. Grind in and......

Petrol in the combustion chamber and see if anything "leaks" out.

That's what I've done.

Johnny B
SPRIDDLER
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Re: top end

Post by SPRIDDLER »

I always do it the other way round, one valve at a time: Stand cyl head up and pour petrol into the inlet/zorst port (i.e. fill it up) as it's easier to see petrol leaking into the head than creeping from the combustion chamber and along the inlet/zorst port. You can't get much petrol in the combustion chamber and it's not easy to see whether it's just one valve (which one?) or both that are leaking.
(Obviously if it comes running out of the valve guides you've another job to do).
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red_dog49
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Re: top end

Post by red_dog49 »

Hi, yes I will clean up, re grind the valve seats, fit new springs and re build.
Easy said, do you really need a spring compression tool or can you get it done without.
Rob
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Re: top end

Post by SPRIDDLER »

You can do it without a tool, it needs the knack rather than great strength, although your new springs might be a bit of a struggle.
Have a look at pages 27 and 28 of the link below. It's to a H/Weight workshop manual but still relevant for your needs. I've used the H/Weight w/shop manual as the text and pics are very much clearer than many others (and I'm not familiar with the L/W manuals).
http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... ingles.pdf
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Mick D
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Re: top end

Post by Mick D »

Hi

I re-fitted my springs without the use of the tool, not too difficult - I engaged the spring in the collar and located the tangs onto the base plate with the help of pliers, (as the misplaced spring in your previous photo),then just pushed down on the coil part of the spring and it slid into place.

Regards Mick
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Janet
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Re: top end

Post by Janet »

SPRIDDLER wrote:You can do it without a tool, it needs the knack rather than great strength, although your new springs might be a bit of a struggle
According to a professional bike 'worker-oner,' some new springs are so strong that it's almost impossible to fit them without some serious equipment. I don't know whether they're being made for lightweights.
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Re: top end

Post by SPRIDDLER »

In case you are unaware, the hairpin valve spring fitting tool is available from a couple of sources - here at our spares dep't:

http://www.amoc-parts.com/store/comersu ... duct=21316
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Ozmadman
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Re: top end

Post by Ozmadman »

red_dog49 wrote:Hi, yes I will clean up, re grind the valve seats, fit new springs and re build.
Easy said, do you really need a spring compression tool or can you get it done without.
Rob
Think you may find it impossible to get new springs and if you do please tell us where you got them from as I could do with a new set as well
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
red_dog49
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Re: top end

Post by red_dog49 »

yep your right, only need one,anyone got a hens teeth they can do without.
regards
Rob.
Mick D
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Re: top end

Post by Mick D »

Hi

I'm not 100% sure but I think springs can be heat treated again after re-forming - may be worth a call to a manufacturer to discuss.

Regards Mick
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