Lightweight over charging

Jakeblue · Post by **Jakeblue** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 9:26 pm

I have an AJS Model 8 350cc Lightweight, which is blowing bulbs like theres no tomorrow. I've put a volt meter across the bulb contacts and I'm getting between 10v and 12v.(6v system) I know the battery has seen better days, could this be the problem?

lawrence · Post by **lawrence** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:07 pm

it sounds as if your regulator has jammed Steve. A new solid state one is inexpensive and never needs maintenance. Hawker Electronics on 01454 323434 will be able to advise you.

Lawrence [}:)]

Tolly · Post by **Tolly** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:17 pm

Check to see if it hasn't been converted to 12v Steve, if not check to see if no one has changed the wiring on the alternator to give max charge all the time. If none of these are the case check the light switch to see if the external connector has not been tampered with, this is to ensure you have max charge when headlamps are on. Solid state regulators are a good idea too, and very cheap and maintainance free.

Regards, Mike T

Tolly · Post by **Tolly** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:26 pm

Sorry, I forgot to mention about the battery. If the battery is naf then most of the charge will be going to uphold that, the only other problem I can see is if you have a bad earth but this will show up with other faults as well.

Mike T

Roy Candler · Post by **Roy Candler** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 5:46 pm

FWIW . . . I seem to recall that the Lightweight 6V system had a length of resistance wire running from the light switch to the main earth point at the battery - providing a load for when running with the lights off. A crude form of regulation. If this one hasn't been converted (send the missionaries, quick!) then a break in the wire could lead to a voltage increase, and the problem as described. Worth a check? This wire (which has a plain, near-transparent covering, I think) is known to be fragile, so many owners replaced it and fitted a resistor in the headlamp shell instead. Can't remember the value or wattage offhand, though.

Conversion to 12V is a better idea - needs a 12V battery, bulbs and coil, and a Zener diode, on a suitable heat sink, wired across the rectifier output.

Roy