G5 Rebuild Questions
- Janet
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- Location: EAST YORKSHIRE UK
Re: G5 Rebuild Questions
Thank you both. Unfortunately, mine doesn't look like that. This could be because it's a G2CSR. Some parts are the same on all lightweights and some are not. Even my spindle is different, it being a square rod right through and it certainly didn't have a nut securing the locking washer. I can't see one on the parts list. If it had one fitted before I took it to bits, it would still be there as I only removed the brake pedal because it was pushed off by the spring unwinding when I was removing the pillion footrest. Ah well...............
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Re: G5 Rebuild Questions
Hi Janet, I have photos of the rear brake pedal arangement with the square rod if you need them.
Colin
Colin
only dead fish go with the flow
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Re: G5 Rebuild Questions
Hi
after reading the thread about brake pedals i decided to take a look at mine as it wasn't springing back, i repositioned the tensioning tab and it worked a treat however when i went to put the nut back on i discovered the threads were trashed and it was only really being held on by grit before, could someone point me in the right direction for the part number for the spindle?
after reading the thread about brake pedals i decided to take a look at mine as it wasn't springing back, i repositioned the tensioning tab and it worked a treat however when i went to put the nut back on i discovered the threads were trashed and it was only really being held on by grit before, could someone point me in the right direction for the part number for the spindle?
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Re: G5 Rebuild Questions
Also looking at my headlamp today and trying to figure out the connections, here is a picture of the headlamp bulb and reflector and the the pilot light and the connections that are currently in my headlamp, any ideas what i need to replace the main headlight connector with?
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Re: G5 Rebuild Questions
my clutch basket also seems a bit off, here is 2 pictures one with the clutch applied one without it looks like the last castellated plate, might jump out, also when i sit on the bike with it in gear and apply the clutch its not all that smooth when i roll it forward, have i got something wrong, added the 1st stepped plate, with the step facing away from the other plates.
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- Ozmadman
- Posts: 2651
- Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:02 am
- Location: ESSEX UK
Re: G5 Rebuild Questions
That looks completely different to mine??ditchweed wrote:Also looking at my headlamp today and trying to figure out the connections, here is a picture of the headlamp bulb and reflector and the the pilot light and the connections that are currently in my headlamp, any ideas what I need to replace the main headlight connector with?
Paul
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
- Ozmadman
- Posts: 2651
- Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:02 am
- Location: ESSEX UK
Re: G5 Rebuild Questions
Something doesn't look right but I can't tell from the pictures?? but the friction plates do look a bit thick?? You should have 4 metal plates with "ears" on plus one stepped back plate again with "ears" . The recess in the back plate faces inwards ( see page 54 of the workshop manual) then they go in alternately until you end with a steel plate in last, here's a pic of my clutchditchweed wrote:my clutch basket also seems a bit off, here is 2 pictures one with the clutch applied one without it looks like the last castellated plate, might jump out, also when i sit on the bike with it in gear and apply the clutch its not all that smooth when i roll it forward, have i got something wrong, added the 1st stepped plate, with the step facing away from the other plates.
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Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
- clive
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- Location: LONDON UK
Re: G5 Rebuild Questions
Not lightweight, but I have often found with heavyweights that new friction plates seem too thick. They are all bonded on material now whereas earlier ones had inserts. Because the bonded material has to allow wear on both sides its probably a bit thicker. My solution has always been to fit one or two of the old friction plates along with new ones so that it all fits. At a later stage when the new plates have worn a bit you can replace the old plates with the remaining new plates.
clive
if it ain't broke don't fix
if it ain't broke don't fix
- Ozmadman
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- Location: ESSEX UK
Re: G5 Rebuild Questions
Could be clive...I replaced all my metal plates as they were either warped or the tabs on them were so worn that they moved to and fro within the slots in the basket but I kept the original friction plates as they still had use in them and had been no problem before the rebuild
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
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- Location: LINCOLNSHIRE UK
Re: G5 Rebuild Questions
Hello there I had the spindle specially made for me by Andrew engineering 01942 888848. Malcom used my old part to make a batch of these.ditchweed wrote:Hi
after reading the thread about brake pedals i decided to take a look at mine as it wasn't springing back, i repositioned the tensioning tab and it worked a treat however when i went to put the nut back on i discovered the threads were trashed and it was only really being held on by grit before, could someone point me in the right direction for the part number for the spindle?
The description is Footrest Bar combined with brake pedal for 350 lightweight Part number LW0023 cost is £30.
It was very difficult to determine the correct factory part number from the limited descriptions within the official parts book hence the Andrew number.
Hope this helps
Steve