Re-Assembling a gearbox Idiot needs help

[good-hifi]

Oh boy, am I having a good day today...

I'm trying to put my gearbox back together Model 14 CSR. It is still in the bike and I've never done anything with a gearbox before in my life.

I seem to have all the internals back in OK, although that took hours because this is all guesswork. I've the workshop manual and several other books but all they say is put the internals back in but nothing more helpful than that!. In the end I've worked out that as long as they are all there and on their correct shaft and the gears and selector forks are the right way around and the kickstart quadrant looks to be in a similar position as shown in a picture I found there is nothing else to be concerned about. Is there?????

I fitted the gearchange quadrant, again no indication as to the position in the books but I hope I have it right. I put the temporarily fitted the outer cover, gearbox pawl (sorry but my technical terms are probably total carp!) and gear lever and I appear to still have four gears and I think I have now got the gearbox in neutral. Went back to what I hope was first and then sort of half a click forward. Anyway with the clutch springs fitted the back wheel turns both ways freely so it must be in neutral. Or broken!

I've the inner cover back on and now need to fit the kick-start return spring. It seems to me that I need to wind this up by about 3/4 of a revolution and the end slips into a retaining hole.

First question......how do I wind the kickstart return spring up, I mean is there a trick to this.

Second question. The three clutch retaining bolts, the ones that fit over the springs which go into cups. How much should be seen of the screw threads when they are adjusted correctly?. I hope you understand that because I don't...

Third question.....is there anything I should do/check before filling it with oil and firing the engine up?.

Sorry for being so daft.

Cheers

BTW take my test on Friday so wish me luck....

[lawrence]

Good luck with the test Mick!
It sounds as if you have the gearbox sorted.

I think I usually pull the return spring with a screwdriver to tension it. It is not critical.

The clutch spring nuts should be adjusted until they are roughly flush with the top of the studs. Then pull the clutch in and turn the engine over with the kickstart and observe the clutch drum turning. You need to turn in the appropriate nut until it turns evenly with a steady gap between the end plate and the drum. Quite easy to do, if you need to undo a nut a fraction you will need to release the nut from its 'spring stop' by pushing the spring back as you turn it. Get it right and you will have a lovely easy clutch action with no drag or slip.

Take it steady for the first few miles and get off and check it regularly. If it is wrong they usually tell you fairly quickly!Edited by - lawrence on 12 Jul 2006 7:37:47 PM

[Egor Rider]

Hi Mick
Just refitted my clutch after it fell off.The clutch spring nuts should be flush /1 or 2 threads showing,but all must be the same. I put mine back flush as I had a very heavy clutch action before, now I have a much lighter action and no clutch slip.The centre adjusting screw should be screwed in until resistance is felt and then backed out 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.Keep to the recomended mono 50 oil as it seems to give a much better change /quieter running (3rd gear whine)than the EP80 some one had put in my G/box.
P.s. Good luck with test.

[paul knapp]

quote: but all must be the same.This is not always the case and is a trap for the novice. 40plus year old springs generaly don't lose there tension at the same rate and each one must be adjusted separately (giving different heights) to have the pressure plate lift evenly to reduce the possibility of drag, ...... Pull in clutch and depress kick starter and observe turning pressure plate (clutch basket will remain stationary because clutch is disengaged)..adjust each individual spring retaining nut until plate runs true.
Cheers, Paul..
Edited by - paul knapp on 13 Jul 2006 04:46:31 AMEdited by - paul knapp on 13 Jul 2006 06:31:01 AM

[lawrence]

Even with new springs I have found the nuts sometimes need to be on different positions on the stud. Follow the manual and you can't go wrong.

Egor is right to remind you re the centre push rod. Do a search of the help forum for a more detailed procedure. From memory it has to be backed off a whole turn? I may be thinking of a different gearbox. All of the other cable adjustments should be slackened off before you set this. It is important to set this up correctly otherwise the cam operating the pushrod will operate on the wrong part of it's profile and you will have a tricky clutch action. It should be smooth and light if you have done it correctly.Edited by - lawrence on 13 Jul 2006 09:49:08 AM

[good-hifi]

Thanks, Guys, for the help. I've got new springs and Saturday is the big day (I hope).

I'll report back.

Cheers