Ajs model 14, 1959. Help

Information relating to the Matchless G2 or AJS Model 14 250cc Lightweight
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Ajs model 14, 1959. Help

Postby poweller996 » Wed Aug 23, 2017 10:40 am

Hi all,
I am new to classic bikes and have just got myself an Ajs model 14 1959.
I have a few questions I hope you may be able to help me with?

First and most important one is that when I start the bike and take off the oil filler cap to observe the oil circulating it appears not to be, what should I be seeing?

Second question is the bike has had both ignition and light switches replaced and when I have the ignition switched off the lights still operate is this normal or has it been wired up wrong?

Third question, their are two pips on the headlight that should light up when the ignition is on so I am led to believe but their are no bulbs in them so they do not work, is this normal?
And finally the amps meter with the engine running stays in the centre of the gauge and hardly moves where should it register ?

Any advice would be greatly received.
Many thanks Mat

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Re: Ajs model 14, 1959. Help

Postby Rob Harknett » Wed Aug 23, 2017 10:55 am

Light weights not really my thing. However, I think you may have the wrong headlamp, no red pips on my lightweights ( I have 58, 63 & 66 )
Does the amp meter still stay in the middle when the lights are on? If is shows a discharge then, there must be an electrical fault. Most vehicles at least have parking lights that will come on without the ignition off. In 1959 you had to have lights on. on your bike, if parked on the road at night. Have you got an instruction book for your bike, which most of your questions are answered in. This later one will help http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... Manual.pdf

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Re: Ajs model 14, 1959. Help

Postby Richard P » Wed Aug 23, 2017 12:34 pm

Hi Mat,

I have a 1960 model 14 which as far as I have been able to tell is mainly original so maybe this will help.

1) Oil circulation - Firstly check that the level is just below the small return hole that you will see in inner wall when you remove the oil cap. Oil tank capacity is quite small and it is important to keep this topped up. Once you have it started it may take a while for the oil to circulate so keep an eye on the hole I have just mentioned which is the oil return and within a minute or two you should see oil returning through here but don't expect a solid stream of oil. Don't let it run for too long though if oil doesn't appear!

2) Switches - Rob is correct about the 'parking light' i.e. the side lights will come on without the ignition being on, so that seems to be correct. Have you checked if the headlight comes on when you turn the lighting switch the other way? This should only come on with the ignition switch on.

3) Headlight pips - There are varying opinions on these as some have them and some don't. Mine has the smaller headlamp with spacers between the shell and mounting brackets and has holes for the plastic pips which are missing. I believe these were present on the earlier bikes and not on later models. There are no bulbs directly under these pips, they are lit by a bulb which, if still present is in a holder mounted to the speedo bracket inside the headlight. which also illuminates the speedo & ammeter. I think the idea was more decorative than functional, although I'll stand corrected on that if anyone knows for certain. Whichever way, it will not affect things even if you don't have the internal bulb/holder.

4) Ammeter - Without the engine running and ignition off I see a discharge of around 2 amps with the side lights on. With the engine running you should be getting a charge from the alternator so it should hover around the zero mark. If you turn the ignition on without the engine running (lights off) then you should see a discharge on the ammeter when the piston is approaching TDC on the firing stroke, you can check this by slowly turning the engine over with the kick start. Another check is to leave the ignition on, then turn on the headlight - you should see a discharge of around 4-6 Amps.

PS In case you didn't know, turn the ignition switch to the right (clockwise) for normal running (I). Anticlockwise (E) is for emergency start and you could cook the battery if you leave it running for more than a few minutes. You will see a higher charge rate of around 4-6amps when running without lights on if this is the case.
If you do not see any movement on the ammeter after checking as above, you may have a duff ammeter.

I hope this is of some help but I will gladly stand corrected on any of the above by our more knowledgeable members!

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Re: Ajs model 14, 1959. Help

Postby Ozmadman » Wed Aug 23, 2017 12:48 pm

poweller996 wrote:Hi all,
I am new to classic bikes and have just got myself an Ajs model 14 1959.
I have a few questions I hope you may be able to help me with?

First and most important one is that when I start the bike and take off the oil filler cap to observe the oil circulating it appears not to be, what should I be seeing?
Yes you should see oil return out of that small hole at the side of the crankcase, make sure the oil is up to the bottom of that hole before running the bike. If it had been sitting ages then the oil could have drained back into the sump and out of the integral oii tank ( the bit you are looking into) so it may take a while to reurn... see my video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8a6JwNC ... e=youtu.be oil return is about 3 mins into video also check that you have oil feed to the rockers

Second question is the bike has had both ignition and light switches replaced and when I have the ignition switched off the lights still operate is this normal or has it been wired up wrong?

This is normal

Third question, their are two pips on the headlight that should light up when the ignition is on so I am led to believe but their are no bulbs in them so they do not work, is this normal?

I have heard of some lightweights with the "lights" and as far as i know they were decorative or at the least they were lit up by the bulb which also lights the ammeter (as it is on the outside of the gauge) they serve no real purpose as far as i am aware
And finally the amps meter with the engine running stays in the centre of the gauge and hardly moves where should it register ?
If the battery is charged up then you will not see much movement, try putting the headlamp on and see what happens, it should deflect towards the neg side a bit until you rev up the engine
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed

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Re: Ajs model 14, 1959. Help

Postby poweller996 » Wed Aug 23, 2017 5:46 pm

Hi, many thanks for all your replies they have all been most helpful.
I have now run the engine for around 4 minutes and I still do not see any oil coming from the small hole
I then removed the rocker box cover to check if there is oil getting up their and it is wet with oil up there.
Does this mean my oil and pump will need replacing?
Many thanks mat.

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Re: Ajs model 14, 1959. Help

Postby SPRIDDLER » Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:56 pm

Welcome mat.jpg


Welcome, Mat.
(Bet that's a new one on you ;) )

You have a golden opportunity to gain some information and advice if you can get to our Annual Jampot Rally this coming B/Hol weekend (Fri to Monday midday), as day visitor, with or without your bike, it doesn't matter. This year it is at Stow on the Wold which can't be terribly far from you.
See the details on the main website here:

http://www.jampot.com/jampotrally/

During the day most will be out on the runs through the countryside but all will be back at the site around 4 p.m.
I strongly recommend you drop in if you can make it. Call at the Registration marquee. You can ask for me (or call me - Neville, on 07815 995548) and although I'm no expert on Lightweights I'll try to arrange that you get to meet other Lighweight owners.

P.S. I note that the fee for a Day Visitor is £15, but believe me it'll be worth every penny to see other Lightweights and owners and (hopefully) save you no end of messaging and questions on this Forum.
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Re: Ajs model 14, 1959. Help

Postby Ozmadman » Wed Aug 23, 2017 11:45 pm

poweller996 wrote:Hi, many thanks for all your replies they have all been most helpful.
I have now run the engine for around 4 minutes and I still do not see any oil coming from the small hole
I then removed the rocker box cover to check if there is oil getting up their and it is wet with oil up there.
Does this mean my oil and pump will need replacing?
Many thanks mat.

The pump is a reciprocating one (basically a shaft with a spiral groove cut into it which allows the shaft to move backwards and forwards) driven by a gear machined onto that end of the crank. It may not be that shaft that is worn but the pin that runs in the groove. Any small amount of wear on that pin will seriously affect the reciprocating action of the pump. To replace that pin you would need to drain the oil from both plugs underneath, take off the RH side engine cover and then remove the oil tank (you will need a new gasket for this) you will see a bolt head set at an angle, undo this and the pin will be in the end of that bolt, the new pin goes into the bolt NARROW END FIRST. Make sure on assembly that the pin is sitting properly in the slot in the shaft before you tighten the bolt otherwise you can damage the pump shaft . Check out the PDF attachment which will show you what is behind the oil tank housing once you get it off and where everything goes PLUS.. the picture will show you the oil tank behind the main RH engine casing and the circular casing above the tank is where all the ignition points stuff goes
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1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed

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Re: Ajs model 14, 1959. Help

Postby poweller996 » Thu Aug 24, 2017 6:51 am

Many thanks Ozmadman that is really helpful, can I do this with the engine still in the frame or will I need to remove it?
Once again many thanks.

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Re: Ajs model 14, 1959. Help

Postby Ozmadman » Thu Aug 24, 2017 7:48 am

poweller996 wrote:Many thanks Ozmadman that is really helpful, can I do this with the engine still in the frame or will I need to remove it?
Once again many thanks.

Engine in the frame, probably need to take the footrest off on that side, plus the gear lever, the kickstart and the small bracket underneath that supports the exhaust front pipe. Also, just edited the PDF to make it slightly clearer
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1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed

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Re: Ajs model 14, 1959. Help

Postby poweller996 » Thu Aug 24, 2017 10:07 am

That's great, many thanks for all your help,
I will start stripping it down when I get back from holiday.
Once again many thanks. Mat

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