1960 G80 ignition timing

[AyJayBee]

I have finally got to the stage of starting my G80, coil ignition. The points were set to open at 3/16" - or very close! - before TDC on full retard, but when kicked over, the 'starter' was launched darmatically skywards A couple more attempts had similar results. I retimed at 1/8th before TDC, retarded - same again. Turning the engine over, ign off, and allowing it to stop before TDC, results in a slight kick when the ign is turned on and the kickstart just touched. I have changed the A/R unit as the one fitted is very stiff. Any ideas please Guys?

[Steve Harding]

I don't know what the difference is with the'60 model but the '52 model is set at 1/2 btdc on full advance

[Mick D]

Hi

Not wishing to teach anyone to suck eggs, but are you using the recognised starting technique? I so I don't see why it will not start.

Have a read of the recent thread re starting a Typhoon and ignore the bit about retarding the ignition

http://www.jampot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=26409

Regards Mick

[Mick D]

I don't know what the difference is with the'60 model but the '52 model is set at 1/2 btdc on full advance

The 60 models are coil ignition which can be timed at 1/8" BTDC retarded

Regards Mick

[SPRIDDLER]

As Mick suggests, correct procedure is essential. A good bold long swinging kick with your weight behind it and always with your knee bent to prevent launching is essential. A prod is no good at all.

However, your timing may be too far advanced. When you get a 'kick' when you just touched the kickstart with the ignition on it is because the points are opening. Therefore if you had stopped the piston a certain distance (i.e. more than 1/8") before TDC and the plug sparked when you just touched the kickstart the timing may be too far advanced. It obviously depends how much movement you mean by just touched.
I've never had a coil ign or auto A/R bike so I may be writing nonsense (probably) but you said the previous A/R united was 'very stiff'. What exactly was the stiffness? If it was the bobweight movement perhaps the one you replaced it with was less 'stiff' because it has weak or incorrect bobweight return springs and the bobweights are advancing the timing at kickstart speed?

[AyJayBee]

Ref ' the stiffness' - the unit has not been used for 20 years, languished in the shed waiting. as a result got full of crud. I didn't realise how easy they were to dismantle, but I have done so and cleaned it all up, but the weights are not moving easily when I try to open them. also the 2 springs are different - can anyone suggest a source of new ones?
I have since retimed the ignition using a bulb to determine exactly when the points are opening, and set the spark at 1/8" fully retarded - not yet had the courage to kick the beast. am waiting for a valve lifter cable to help overcome the problem. Will keep you posted. Thanks for the advice and support.
Tony

[Mick D]

not yet had the courage to kick the beast.

Hi

Turn off the ignition and ease the piston over TDC then follow the guidance in the link I provided - turn the ignition on before you give an emphatic swing, (not a kick).

You need to get the exhaust lift sorted but it shouldn't stop you starting the bike.

Regards Mick