Tyre Fitting

[Winkie]

All of the above and don't attempt too much of the bead with each use of the lever. Small amounts of bead at a time works for me. If you have a heavyweight with a non quickly detachable rear wheel, changing the tyre is almost a relief after the faffing about removing the wheel!

[Dave T_LAPSED]

Hello, I've read the comments with interest, just one point, is the concensus of opinion that you start fitting at the valve to finish on the opposite side?? To do that flies in the face of all I have learned shurely one starts opposite the valve to push the tyre furthest into the well of the rim and give the most slack when finishing at the valve!

[SPRIDDLER]

......surely one starts opposite the valve to push the tyre furthest into the well of the rim and give the most slack when finishing at the valve!

That has always been my way.

[Tolly]

I'm with Spridds on this, in addition I have lengths of wood I sit the wheel on to then walk the tyre on. I've never had any trouble.

[Peter Morris]

The Mitas tyres seemed to go on more easily than the Dunlop K70 or Avon Speedmaster tyres.

I use Mitas tyres, put them next to a radiator until properly warm, rest the rim on some wood, and tread the tyre on. Use tyre soap and the tyre goes on EASY, also no chance of nipping tube with levers.

[56G80S]

Having had the joy of doing this by the roadside more than once for both front and rear wheels and at home wearing the old Ashmans trials boots, with internal steels as well as toe and heel steels, the latter helps. I now also carry a little valve puller tool. Takes no space and makes the whole thing easier. Sprid spot on about keeping the tyre into the well in the rim; and starting opposite the valve.

But last time I didn't fit the trye with the "opposite the valve" marker in the right place and had to balance the front wheel the old fashioned way.

Only use the two old Dunlop levers Dad gave me but thinking of following Alan Jennings example and buying some smaller' lighter ones for carrying with me.

Johnny B

[Mick D]

Hi

Thanks for all the advice and responses.

These tyres are old 19" Avon Roadrunners, no way will they 'walk' on. The front, now fitted, was at 25 degrees plus and well lubed, I chose to start opposite the valve believing this to be the correct method. I also chose not to put any air into the tube as I've found previously that this caused me to nip the tube with the tyre levers, (probably my fault for putting too much air in). This time I put it in fully deflated and tucked it away from the bead I was working on, once the tyre was on I bounced the wheel around a fair bit before putting any air into it, the theory being the tube should settle itself into it's natural position - seemed to work

Once I've finished restoring and building the rear wheel I'll be fitting that tyre so hopefully my previous experience and the advice here will make it less problematic.

Regards Mick

[Group Leader]

But last time I didn't fit the trye with the "opposite the valve" marker in the right place and had to balance the front wheel the old fashioned way.

What is this mark you speak of?

Alan

[Mick D]

What is this mark you speak of?

Hi

It's a dot of paint, usually red or yellow on the tyre sidewall, and indicates the lightest point of the tyre - by convention the heaviest part of the rim is assumed to be at the valve stem and therefore the dot should be aligned with the valve.

Not all tyres have a balance mark.

Regards Mick

[clive]

Mick are you are saying to place the dot in the same place as the valve as it is the lightest part of the tyre. Johnny B is saying it is an "opposite the valve" marker so implying it is the heaviest part of the tyre. None of the tryes I have fitted have had a spot of paint on but them i am a cheapy. Confused of Hanwell