Front fork tube damper shuttle locating sleeve

[Invicta]

I have stripped my front forks to replace, or have hard chromed and re ground the fork tubes due to rust pitting in order to get a good fit in the oil seal. My bike is a 1949 model 18 which has the fork tubes p/n 013348 apparently only used in 1949 to 1950 . I need to remove the damper shuttle locating sleeve, that is the sleeve at the very bottom with 4 holes in it. There is a lose ring above it which the rebound spring sits on. Has anyone managed to remove this locating sleeve and how did they do it. It looks as though it is an interference fit, but I do not want to start hammering on it until I know for sure. Also anyone know what thread is used in the lower slider where the front brake cable screws in. I need to plug it prior to having the sliders powder coated.

[Rob Harknett]

Have a look at the WD Matchless manual. Not the same as post war 40's bikes, but basics are the same. The manual gives more detail and sectional drawings than found in other manuals. It may not solve your fork problem completely, buy may give some details that will help. Also help with other parts of your bike. http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... Manual.pdf
I also have an original American army version of this book. I'll have to check that out some time to see if it differs, apart from the American adverts in it. I have only ever seen this copy that I own.

[clive]

I will have a look this afternoon as I have one of these stanchions on the shelf.

[Invicta]

Have a look at the WD Matchless manual. Not the same as post war 40's bikes, but basics are the same. The manual gives more detail and sectional drawings than found in other manuals. It may not solve your fork problem completely, buy may give some details that will help. Also help with other parts of your bike. http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... Manual.pdf
I also have an original American army version of this book. I'll have to check that out some time to see if it differs, apart from the American adverts in it. I have only ever seen this copy that I own.

Thank you for that. My forks are the shuttle valve type used only 1948 through to 1950 and are a little different from those shown in the manual.

[Invicta]

I will have a look this afternoon as I have one of these stanchions on the shelf.

Thank you for that Clive. The sleeve looks to me as it is a press fit over the stanchion after the rebound spring collar is fitted and then the 4 holes drilled though the sleeve and the fork stanchion at the same time , as the holes line up exactly It almost looks as the sleeve is part of the stanchion, but if so I can not see how the rebound spring collar would fit onto the stanchion.

[clive]

Not sure if mine is the same as yours. No holes in the aluminium shuttle. I tried removing the lower steel bush which is held in place by a circlip. It looks as though with this removed the shuttle on mine would drop down as well. Unfortunately even with the circlip removed the steel Bush will not come off. I am assuming that over time the bottoming out on the insert which is bolted to the slider has welled it the bottom of the stanchion. So cannot help. Mine is no use but like many of the rusty bits I cannot quite throw it away!

[clive]

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[clive]

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[Invicta]

20180906_162817_resized.jpg

The 4 holes are not in the aluminium shuttle they are in the thin walled steel bush that is the damp[er shuttle locating sleeve

l

[clive]

I would have thought the upper and lower holes are all part of the single stanchion and not a thin walled bush. If anything is pressed on I would have thought it was just the retaining ring above the aluminium shuttle (to stop it rising too far). The rebound spring would impact on the shuttle not this ring which is too tight to the stanchion.
My next question is why are you wanting to remove either the pressed on ring or a thin walled bush if you are right? If you then have the stanchions hard chromed you will not be able to get them back on, especially if it is a thin walled bush.