Steering head race removal and fitting
- Rob Harknett
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- Location: ESSEX UK
Re: Steering head race removal and fitting
I have managed to use wood working sash clamp heads bolted on bits of wood to fashion a press for some jobs also a bench drill. But not for head races..
- REW
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- Location: CO DURHAM UK
Re: Steering head race removal and fitting
Yes you must have had! Just had a go (upper) but it is almost impossible to get a direct hit on the edge of the race looking down through the crown hole. Need to fashion some sort of angled chisel type drift...McBob wrote:I must of had a bit luck removing mine, they were driven out with a large steel punch, upper and lower, assisted by the application of blue language.
To refit heat and freeze, a large brass drift on the lug and as you suggest, protect the crown bearing with the old one driven by a pipe/tube of suitable dia.
Would have been nice to have a press, but managed with a lump hammer.
Ron
1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
- REW
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting
Bingo! A piece of round mild steel bar about 6" long by 7/16th" filed top and side near the top:
The notch clears both the fork crown edges and the top yolk inner lips to permit a good whack with a hammer. Used suitably protective surfaces to site the work piece. The force of blow required was not that great to be honest, the key is getting the drift to sit tight when you line it up and hit it.
Now to order parts - if the saga turns out to be of interest to others I will describe the re-fitting in due course.
The notch clears both the fork crown edges and the top yolk inner lips to permit a good whack with a hammer. Used suitably protective surfaces to site the work piece. The force of blow required was not that great to be honest, the key is getting the drift to sit tight when you line it up and hit it.
Now to order parts - if the saga turns out to be of interest to others I will describe the re-fitting in due course.
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Ron
1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting
Hi
Fitting is easy:
Lower race - heat the race and freeze the yoke, (wrap it in a poly bag and put into the freezer for a couple of hours), - wear gloves to allow you to locate the outer and have a piece of suitably sized tube on hand to tap it down if it's still a little snug.
Upper race - make an insertion tool from either a large bolt or some 12mm studding, some washers and nuts - squeeze it in.
Regards Mick
Fitting is easy:
Lower race - heat the race and freeze the yoke, (wrap it in a poly bag and put into the freezer for a couple of hours), - wear gloves to allow you to locate the outer and have a piece of suitably sized tube on hand to tap it down if it's still a little snug.
Upper race - make an insertion tool from either a large bolt or some 12mm studding, some washers and nuts - squeeze it in.
Regards Mick
- REW
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting
The fork crown race is the easier of the 2 to fit - heated it with a small propane torch to slightly spit sizzlin' temperature and it just fell into place with the slightest follow up tap to be sure. The top yoke race however...
I tried a disc brake caliper rewind tool which was a good fit but the race tended to get "crossed" at which point I had to tap it back out and clean up the gouging in the seat - the yoke is a soft alloy! Eventually I gritted my teeth and used the old race as a guard on top of the new one and hammered it in. This way it is easier to keep the new race travelling straight, but you do worry about breaking something!
Now, where did I put those new balls?
I tried a disc brake caliper rewind tool which was a good fit but the race tended to get "crossed" at which point I had to tap it back out and clean up the gouging in the seat - the yoke is a soft alloy! Eventually I gritted my teeth and used the old race as a guard on top of the new one and hammered it in. This way it is easier to keep the new race travelling straight, but you do worry about breaking something!
Now, where did I put those new balls?
Ron
1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting
Had a few fretful moments fitting them too, that frozen lug bearing seems to heat up fast!
Watch out for those greased ball bearings, they are slippery little buggers.
I would be interested in knowing how you get on adjusting them. I've ended up with no play along the stem (measured with d.t.i.) but still slight movement of the bearings in seats, which is detectable by hand, any tighter causes binding. It may take some convincing when I get tested that this is by design, which it is isn't it?
Watch out for those greased ball bearings, they are slippery little buggers.
I would be interested in knowing how you get on adjusting them. I've ended up with no play along the stem (measured with d.t.i.) but still slight movement of the bearings in seats, which is detectable by hand, any tighter causes binding. It may take some convincing when I get tested that this is by design, which it is isn't it?
- REW
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting
Not quite at the adjusting stage but in place and feel very good with no play evident with initial set up. I will comment when finalised, however...
My forks are '51 and the top cover/headlamp bracket arrangement is different to '53 on forks in that all the covers are effectively bolted to the fork crown (bottom yolk) with no rubber spacers. As now fitted there is a big gap between the top cover top chrome ring and the bottom of the top yolk and there wasn't with the old races. Anyone seen this before and if so, what might be wrong here?
My forks are '51 and the top cover/headlamp bracket arrangement is different to '53 on forks in that all the covers are effectively bolted to the fork crown (bottom yolk) with no rubber spacers. As now fitted there is a big gap between the top cover top chrome ring and the bottom of the top yolk and there wasn't with the old races. Anyone seen this before and if so, what might be wrong here?
Ron
1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
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- REW
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- Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 10:45 pm
- Location: CO DURHAM UK
Re: Steering head race removal and fitting
I checked the races were properly seated on installation - the crown is easy to see, the handle bar lug can be seen with a dental mirror - both were flat on their seats. In situ I checked that all the balls were in the race groove and the actual steering head feels smooth and solid, so I can only assume all is in place.
I suspect the races are slightly taller than the originals though I can't check now. Also, the frame races are curved to match the curve in the head stock and it is possible the radii don't quite match so they sit prouder than before . It adds up to 2.5mm:
I think a thin rubber washer will disguise the gap and prevent water getting in so easily. Possibly an O ring if I can find a suitable size.
Anyone had this happen? All parts from the parts list are present...
I suspect the races are slightly taller than the originals though I can't check now. Also, the frame races are curved to match the curve in the head stock and it is possible the radii don't quite match so they sit prouder than before . It adds up to 2.5mm:
I think a thin rubber washer will disguise the gap and prevent water getting in so easily. Possibly an O ring if I can find a suitable size.
Anyone had this happen? All parts from the parts list are present...
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Ron
1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
- ajscomboman
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- Location: HAMPSHIRE UK
Re: Steering head race removal and fitting
Same issue I had on the 52LCT and I ended up splitting a large grommet in half and using that on each leg as it looked better than an o ring.