Steering head race removal and fitting

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REW
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Steering head race removal and fitting

Post by REW »

I have put up with notchy steering for long enough and despite many adjustments. Examination reveals marked head races. While the pair in the frame (000806) fall out, the one on the crown (000805) and in the top yoke (012620) do not.

Question then is - how to remove and refit? Do I just destroy them to remove them then heat/freeze respectively before carefully drifting new ones in? I have never had the need to do these before so all advice gratefully received. Oh, and if it is in the archive I didn't come across it. Recent threads didn't quite tell me how I might proceed either.
Ron

1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
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Rob Harknett
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting

Post by Rob Harknett »

Long time since I last built up a bike to include steering bearings Ron. For jobs common to many years/models, The WD workshop manual is a good reference book. See below.
Ashampoo_Snap_2018.03.06_19h08m32s_001_.png
In reading this, it will be noted what you should find if everything is correct. Anything incorrect being seized. So you need to take appropriate action to un seize a part, clean/replace etc. It does sound like your steering needs a good overhaul, to get adjustment correct. Hope this info will guide you in tackling the job with confidence in getting a satisfactory job done. Note the correct ball dia. and number off.
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dave16mct
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting

Post by dave16mct »

Can't agree Rob. I think it's a good example of the manual being wrong. The races in the frame float, but they are an interference fit in the top and bottom yokes. Ron I think (from memory) you can drift out the top race but for the bottom race you will probably have to lever up with a big screwdriver or grind across with a Dremel, then hit with a centre punch to crack it.
Cheers Dave.
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Rob Harknett
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting

Post by Rob Harknett »

dave16mct wrote:Can't agree Rob. I think it's a good example of the manual being wrong. The races in the frame float, but they are an interference fit in the top and bottom yokes. Ron I think (from memory) you can drift out the top race but for the bottom race you will probably have to lever up with a big screwdriver or grind across with a Dremel, then hit with a centre punch to crack it.
Cheers Dave.
The WD manual wrong Dave? 20 years later ( 1960 ) manuals still wrong, surely some one would have noticed after 20 years and not print the same mistake as in the WD manual.
Ashampoo_Snap_2018.03.06_21h20m28s_002_.png
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Andy51
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting

Post by Andy51 »

Hi Ron, never removed race in the crown, but for the one on the lower crown stem I used a slim-bladed chisel fitting between race and casting to ease it up, then a drift to get it onto the slightly reduced diameter main shaft. Beware, this process will damage the paint on the crown. For the top race, you could always drill a couple of small holes through from the top and use a 1/8 drift to knock it out if all else fails. Hope this helps, Andy
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dave16mct
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting

Post by dave16mct »

1953 army manual. Section 17 page 36: 'The lower race ring will be an interference fit'.
Dave.
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Rob Harknett
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting

Post by Rob Harknett »

I had noticed that Dave. But removal should be quite easy, except perhaps after a few 1,000 miles in use. In which case a hammering effect would have made this a bit OTT of an interference fit. So its understandable this hammering has resulted in making removal difficulties you have encountered. All good comment of what can be expected one could come up against. Perhaps the manual was correct at the time, when the bike was new. But needs comments as you have made, to bring it up to date, as to what to expect some 60 years into the future. Thank you for your input, its all good experience passed on. I have now made a file on the basic's of steering head bearings. Not sure if it will attach here. I'll try. No luck PDF file too big
Steering_Head_Bearings.pdf
Made it much smaller,
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Mick D
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting

Post by Mick D »

Hi

I removed mine by heating the outer race with a fine propane torch and then twisting off with a set of slip joint pliers, (it's important to limit the heating to the bearing only).

I think I'm correct in saying there has been some correspondence on here quite recently regarding replacement bearings with the incorrect bore dimension, (too large), I suggest doing some research before deciding where to order from.

Regards Mick
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REW
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting

Post by REW »

Thanks for the ideas so far - it seems a combination of heating first (fork crown) and driving out from above ("handlebar lug") plus judicious levering with a sharp chisel is required. As for source of replacements, yes Mick you are right, I followed that thread with interest as I knew this job approached and will act accordingly.

I would like to remove the old intact if possible to use (upside down) when drifting new ones into place - works well with taper roller type bearings on more modern machines.
Ron

1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
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Re: Steering head race removal and fitting

Post by McBob »

I must of had a bit luck removing mine, they were driven out with a large steel punch, upper and lower, assisted by the application of blue language.
To refit heat and freeze, a large brass drift on the lug and as you suggest, protect the crown bearing with the old one driven by a pipe/tube of suitable dia.
Would have been nice to have a press, but managed with a lump hammer.
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