Hi, I'm new to the forum and this is my first post...so be gentle with me!
I have just acquired a 1960 G12 and was looking on line at the 1959 owners manual, and its recommended use of the air lever. The manual says that you pull it forward to increase air flow when riding but it should be fully closed when starting the bike from cold. I'm sure this is not what the previous owner told me - he told me to open a little for starting, just like a choke, and then fully close it when the bike is warmed up. Does this vary from new because the bike is now older and has some 'personal quirks' that apply to it better than when original?
I know all you 'experienced' bikers are now giggling at me...but my Fireblade doesn't have this technology so some advice would be appreciated
Thanks
Geoff
ps why didn't I get one of these sooner...its a lovely ride
Run the bike with the choke fully OPEN. I seldom bother to close mine even just a little unless its really cold. Check open or closed so you know whats happening. Open the throttle, now put your finger in the carb bell mouth or look, operate the air/choke lever, you will see or feel a small slide going up or down. When this slide up fully up the air / choke is fully open for riding once warmed up a bit. Down will just make the mixture richer for starting.
It really would be a good idea to get the instruction book for your bike to answer these very basic questions.
I would have to do the same had I got a Fireblade.
GeoffR wrote:Hi, I'm new to the forum and this is my first post...so be gentle with me!
I have just acquired a 1960 G12 and was looking on line at the 1959 owners manual, and its recommended use of the air lever. The manual says that you pull it forward to increase air flow when riding but it should be fully closed when starting the bike from cold. I'm sure this is not what the previous owner told me - he told me to open a little for starting, just like a choke, and then fully close it when the bike is warmed up. Does this vary from new because the bike is now older and has some 'personal quirks' that apply to it better than when original?
I know all you 'experienced' bikers are now giggling at me...but my Fireblade doesn't have this technology so some advice would be appreciated
Thanks
Geoff
ps why didn't I get one of these sooner...its a lovely ride
Hi Geoff
It may be a little difficult to see or feel the air slide in the carb intake as the 1960 G12 has a bellmouth which projects back through a plate which hides everything. All you need to remember is that the choke lever (which should be on the right next to the twistgrip) needs to pull on the cable to pull up the choke slide and open the choke. I have never needed to use the choke on any of my old Brit bikes so they remain permanently open.
No giggling here, Geoff, and Welcome!
When I had my first modern bike after 50 or so years with old Brit irons I had no end of trouble starting it. The first time (and several times later) I'd still got the side stand down (which has an ignition cut-out). The second time I had the 'Kill' switch on.
As with Jim, I've never had the need to use the choke. If it's that ruddy cold out, I'm not.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Agree, I never use the air slide on Amals, indeed I remove them and blank off the cable entry. If starting from cold, just give it a good tickle until fuel spurts through the tickler nozzle, a couple of kicks with the ignition off to prime the cylinder(s) then away it should go
Hi Geoff, as touched upon on the last post, the Amal carbs have a 'tickler'!
This small push button allows you to 'flood' the carb when first starting...some owners send Morse code on it...tap tap tap. I just hold it down till some petrol dribbles out. This ensures the carb is full of petrol and as already mentioned, you may well find you won't need to use the air lever, which is effectively a choke .
As someone who also owns a modern bike, Triumph Tiger 800 XCX, I can vouch for the endearing appeal of a proper Brit bike too.
Regards kk
Top tip - if it needs more than 2 bolts to hold it on, its probably important...
the choke/air slide is fully open when it is held under tension and closed [for starting ] when the cable is not pulled out .
with the choke lever they can be fitted either horizontal on handlebars or facing vertically depending which model or year you have .
so in other words when you are driving and engine is warmed up you will pull the lever round as far as it goes so that the cable is taught .
the slotted nut on the lever needs to be tight enough so the lever stays in position when choke lever is moved to off and doesnt slowly move back under the tension and then close the choke as you are riding .
when starting you need to have the lever and cable as if it is slack .
basically the air valve/choke lever works opposite way round to a throttle lever its off when pulled all way round and on when back to its stop .
TIP : if you carry a couple of cable ties in the tool box it will be usefull for you if the nipple ever comes off the lever end of the choke cable and makes the choke stay full on , you can pull the cable out till it stops and bend it back over the outer and then cable tie it down so you can get home with the choke now off .
this happened to me 15 miles from club hq on my way back home but i had another 80 miles to go , so instead of turning back to kettering i was able to get home ok and then order a new choke cable from them later and not lose time trying to get home in the dark of winter with an ajs candlelit headlight .
another tip : if you have a manual advance/retard lever on the magneto etc allways pull the lever open to retard the ignition anytime you kick the bike to start it , whether its cold or hot , or youll either hit s solid wall on the kickstart or it will kick you back off the back .
