Hi, I have a quick clutch question, but (ahem) it isn't an AJS/ Matchless - it some weird make that starts with T and ends with umph.
I have a friends's 3TA 350 unit twin, 1959. The clutch works fine on the move, no slip at all. But sometimes when kicking it over it does slip. The cable seems OK, has been lubricated, and has free play at the lever end. Any thoughts? Apologies for defiling this forum with talk of non AMC machinery.
Malc
Clutch question
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Re: Clutch question
I have exactly the same issue with a T100ss and a B40, I have tried most things but given up, so now I don't free off the clutch before starting the engine, that seems to help a lot and sorry I can't help.
Colin
Colin
only dead fish go with the flow
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Re: Clutch question
Malc. What have you done/replaced to try to cure the prob? Is it all the time or only from cold?
I've never seen inside a Triumph clutch. However........
The 350 twin will only have one of the 175cc cylinders under compression at a time and a lighter flywheel assembly so not as much compression or inertia to overcome than with a H/W single engine.
Have you tried increasing the clutch spring pressure? The fact that it slips on the kickstart but not when riding may be due to the fact that (I guess) there's more 'deadweight' (inertia?) to be overcome when kick-starting an engine (esp if the oil's cold and thick) than to keep the bike moving when riding along.
I've had my Burman box slip on the k/s but perform perfectly fine once under way. I tightened the springs but they became nearly coil bound the end of the clutch lift. New springs sorted it.
Maybe the thrust rod is gunged up with grease/rust and sticking until it has warmed up a bit.
I've never seen inside a Triumph clutch. However........
The 350 twin will only have one of the 175cc cylinders under compression at a time and a lighter flywheel assembly so not as much compression or inertia to overcome than with a H/W single engine.
Have you tried increasing the clutch spring pressure? The fact that it slips on the kickstart but not when riding may be due to the fact that (I guess) there's more 'deadweight' (inertia?) to be overcome when kick-starting an engine (esp if the oil's cold and thick) than to keep the bike moving when riding along.
I've had my Burman box slip on the k/s but perform perfectly fine once under way. I tightened the springs but they became nearly coil bound the end of the clutch lift. New springs sorted it.
Maybe the thrust rod is gunged up with grease/rust and sticking until it has warmed up a bit.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
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Re: Clutch question
The Meriden makers bang on quite a bit in the handbook about the primary case oil, recommending 20 weight, and warning of problems if not used. The closest I can get for my 3TA is straight 30 and I have no clutch problems.
- ajscomboman
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Re: Clutch question
ATF is regarded as being a 20 weight oil.Trefor wrote:The Meriden makers bang on quite a bit in the handbook about the primary case oil, recommending 20 weight, and warning of problems if not used. The closest I can get for my 3TA is straight 30 and I have no clutch problems.
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Re: Clutch question
Make sure the plates separate evenly and once you are happy with that, screw in the spring adjusters 1/2 a turn, check plate lif uniformly and see if that makes any difference. It might be time for new plates.
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Re: Clutch question
Had the exact same symptoms when I set up my 650s clutch, the push rod was a gnat's to tight, slightly backed it off now lovely