Info for T Seal for tin chaincase

[rudelan_LAPSED]

Hello, I saw in the section 'Services' in the magazine Jampot, that DW offers a seal for tin chaincase T profile ... It is effective? Someone has a picture? The club sells this type of seal? Thanks for your help. Ruddy

[g80csp11]

If you assemble the tin chain case with a modern flange sealant then you really don't need the T section seal
my old 1946 G80L is still using the original rubber seal and band clamp and careful assembly with the flange sealant keeps oil in the chain case
Perhaps a little more messy to assemble

[alanengineer]

Modern flange sealant ? whats that, tell us old dinosaurs what make and name you are using. Always looking for an excuse to go 'modern'

[Duncan]

Hi Ruddy

I would go for the club supplied seal every time, the American group identified it first, no messing about removing sealants every time the case comes off, it is thicker than the original as it is "T" shaped with the tapered leg of the tee sitting between the chaincase halves requiring a spacer/washer placing on the central bolt inside the case between the two halves, it is a softer foam so has some give in it and still requires the outside alloy clamping ring.

All of the different designes can be made to work providing the joining faces are true and flat.

I was reading the other day of one approach to put a bead of silicone around the chaincase faces then lay them on a piece of greased glass to set and then assemble as normal with the beads taking up any irregularities and forming a seal.

[ajscomboman]

Think I'll just stick with this from the parts service, 018652AD, had 4 so far and everyone has been oil tight without the need for sealant or any other gunge. They are easily removable and reusable as well.

[ajscomboman]

Duncan, SNAP!!!!!!

[Rob Harknett]

I have said before, I do not bother to try and seal my cases. Water will get in and stay in. This will make oil go funny, could cause rust to chains and clutch and perhaps clutch problems. Unless you change oil after riding in rain. Oil will float on the water. So when you put your bike in the shed, next morning you will see water has drained out. So the oil stays good. You cannot seal the cases where the dynamo gear box shaft goes through. Think, you are sealing cases so water will stay in with oil, is that being clever or stupid ? I would say stupid to make sure the oil will soon get contaminated. You would not want water in your engine and gearbox oil, so why do something to keep water in your chain case oil. I did once seal my cases, until I saw rusty filthy chains, clutch and a mess of oil and water inside. On the day I opened the cases, was because I had rode the bike in Floods, knowing a lot of water would be inside the cases. But the rust and messy oil did not just happen on that day. I do not mind if the cases leak just a little oil, knowing water will drain out OK. If you must make the seal water tight, be prepared to always take the cases apart and drain out oil & water after riding in wet weather. I have seen the mess water can make. I would agree with Rob, If you use what AMC used only, the cases may be quite oil tight, but not water tight. Or have you never noticed water drip from your chain cases after wet riding. I have, but my garage floor is a bit oily. So water does not drip and dry up. There's still a little water on the oily floor next morning.

[spookefoote1956]

I've got the T one. Works ok but you need to make a bigger internal spacer then use a half width nut on the outside.

[rudelan_LAPSED]

Ok but the seal of club is T type?

[ajscomboman]

Ok but the seal of club is T type?

If it works would it really matter if it was T, Z, F, D or whatever? I think Duncan already mentioned the profile!

Hi Ruddy

I would go for the club supplied seal every time, the American group identified it first, no messing about removing sealants every time the case comes off, it is thicker than the original as it is "T" shaped with the tapered leg of the tee sitting between the chaincase halves requiring a spacer/washer placing on the central bolt inside the case between the two halves, it is a softer foam so has some give in it and still requires the outside alloy clamping ring.

All of the different designes can be made to work providing the joining faces are true and flat.

I was reading the other day of one approach to put a bead of silicone around the chaincase faces then lay them on a piece of greased glass to set and then assemble as normal with the beads taking up any irregularities and forming a seal.