Wet Sump Oil Stop

[Cjay59_LAPSED]

Spriddler, you we're right, it was Bunners who had the kickstart thread, and yes thats the barrel, must of been thinking spanners.

Thank you for all the tips, I feel much more confident moving forward with the bike, I need to get it through the export paperwork, then I can get to grips with running the bike, which should be next week, but I wanted to have the oil issue clear in my mind, as a priority.

And Rob, get over to see Terry, I think he's at Kempton though at the weekend, he has to be worth a visit.

Kind regards to all, Cliff

[Cjay59_LAPSED]

Hi Spriddler, I had downloaded the '53' manual, taken notes and gone through the start procedure, that's how I started it first time. I'll have to tape them to the headlight until I get the hang of it, I wasn't sure if you held in the valve lifter whilst you kicked, it's very different to a Stormer, at first I thought I may have made a big mistake, but I carried on and that's what I meant by the flywheel motion, the Stormer starts with a bang, Thumper starts with a delay.

By hand, I'm too old to do cartwheels...

[SPRIDDLER]

Hi Spriddler, I had downloaded the '53' manual, taken notes and gone through the start procedure, that's how I started it first time. I'll have to tape them to the headlight until I get the hang of it,...........

Long swinging kick. (640x468).jpg

[Expat]

[Cjay59_LAPSED]

I've even got the right dog!!

Biggles copy.jpg

[Cjay59_LAPSED]

The bike is now back together and I've gone out for my second run, this time we covered a modest 8 miles, the first trip was about 20 yards, the steering took me into a ditch at the side of the lane, I hopped the front wheel out last the clutch cable went straight across the lane and hit the stone wall. The new clutch cable seems to have fixed that, it snaps a bit but otherwise seems positive. The steering now appears to be about right, I loosened off the front, bounced her up and down a bit then tightened everything back up again, the back may now need a bit of work but if in a queue of traffic or waiting for the light she balances very well, you can keep your feet up until you've really come to a stop. I realise now that when your riding along, the kick start doesn't bother you, it's when you standing on the pegs that it's knocking the back of your leg. I found some Sae40 locally which I've now put in the tank, this seems to have stopped any drips, the exhaust pipe has taken on a bronze colour around the barrel, on the Stormer I have a painted exhaust, so I don't know if this colour is good or bad. Starting wasn't too bad, but I did run out of petrol after about 50 yards, hadn't turned it on, and got shined a few times kicking it back over, it was raining and slippery. The oil is flowing well back into the tank, oil lever up for on. Thanks for all your help, any feed back would be appreciated, best wishes Cliff

[SPRIDDLER]

I hopped the front wheel out last the clutch cable went straight across the lane and hit the stone wall.

I can't work out what you mean by that sentence...

The first 6" or 10" of the zorst pipe will discolour with heat. Honey/straw/bronze colour is normal but a bright electric blue/mauve 'could' mean it's overheating due to running with a weak mixture or with retarded ignition timing.

The new clutch cable seems to have fixed that, it snaps a bit...

Snaps?

[Cjay59_LAPSED]

Hi Spriddler, when I veered left into the ditch, I gave it a bit more throttle to lighten the front and hop up back onto the tarmac, then pulled in the clutch to control it and the cable had come out of the handle bar lever, so I just when straight across the single track lane, not much room or time to turn, and ended up on my arse squashed between the bike and the low stone wall. No damage done, just bent the front mudguard stay a bit. It had the wrong clutch cable in. Thanks for the colour coding, that seems about right, honey straw about the first six inches,I could of got SAE30, I could find SAE50, so I went with the SAE40, could you explain the air lever and ignition lever, how you balance these up through a journey, I'm not even sure which way to move them, I think I gave it more air after a while by pulling it back towards me!

[Cjay59_LAPSED]

Snaps, sorry snatches a bit when I let it out after changing gear, the bike lurches forward, not quite as smooth as I would like!

[SPRIDDLER]

Ah, well the Owners Manual will advise on air and A/R use/settings.
Everyone has their own ideas but in short what I do is....
Air (choke) lever. The choke is 'Off' when the cable is tight. The cable lifts the choke piece which is in the carb slide. I rarely used the choke as a tickle was enough and I like to run with the carb set just a smidge on the rich side. If you need to use the choke it is normally only necessary for starting and then a minute or two until the engine has warmed up.

A/R lever.
If the A/R cable enters the mag on the right (viewed from the primary case side) then full advance is with the cable tight.
If the A/R cable enters the mag on the left (viewed from the primary case side) then full advance is with the cable relaxed.
Have a look at this FAQ:..... http://www.jampot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3821

Again, everyone has their own preference. However, this is the basics:
Retard the ignition for starting (to avoid the risk of a hefty kickback/backfire) then when the engine is running advance it to the position where it was when you timed the ignition with the mag set at full advance. This should be with the lever at its full travel (either clock or anti-clock depending on where the cable enters the mag, as above). I never alter mine when riding but some purists will say that it's good to retard the ignition when puling hard and relatively slowly, perhaps up a long hill. This can be useful when trials riding. I can't comment as I only rode trials with two-strokes.