burman clutch repair, pushrod
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burman clutch repair, pushrod
Hi two simple questions regarding the burman clutch which i am stripping down, everything has gone well but two points am not sure on , this is my first clutch repair.
1/ The pushrod, reading it says that the little ball bearing can wear a little dent at the end of the pushrod, and if only slight can be tidied up with a grinder, am talking about the ball bearing through to the gearbox side, Can you just turn the pushrod around ? and have the little dent on the outside? Would nt this work?
2/ does the pushrod have loads of grease on ,or lightly oil it , i am not sure that in time the grease/ oil would work its way into the clutch plates. thanks
1/ The pushrod, reading it says that the little ball bearing can wear a little dent at the end of the pushrod, and if only slight can be tidied up with a grinder, am talking about the ball bearing through to the gearbox side, Can you just turn the pushrod around ? and have the little dent on the outside? Would nt this work?
2/ does the pushrod have loads of grease on ,or lightly oil it , i am not sure that in time the grease/ oil would work its way into the clutch plates. thanks
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Re: burman clutch repair, pushrod
I assume it's a B52 'box not a CP.
The ball is at the kickstart end of the pushrod. I have never worried about a little dent in the end. As you have read, you can 'tidy it up' by grinding it flat (if you're that fussy). Obviously a deep 'cup' in the end of the p/rod is undesirable as the ball should have a minimum point of contact with the end to keep the friction as low as possible
Have a look at this drawing:
http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Tra ... rawing.pdf
If the end of the pushrod becomes swaged out it could stick but it's never happened to my 'boxes.
Occasionally I've come across a pushrod with two balls at one end or one at each end to make up for extreme wear, or wrong adjuster bolt in the pressure plate, or a p/rod that's too short. In my experience none of this matters so long as the p/rod is free to slide.
I've lightly oiled mine before reinserting it. It lives in an oily/oil mist environment anyway.
The ball is at the kickstart end of the pushrod. I have never worried about a little dent in the end. As you have read, you can 'tidy it up' by grinding it flat (if you're that fussy). Obviously a deep 'cup' in the end of the p/rod is undesirable as the ball should have a minimum point of contact with the end to keep the friction as low as possible
Have a look at this drawing:
http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Tra ... rawing.pdf
If the end of the pushrod becomes swaged out it could stick but it's never happened to my 'boxes.
Occasionally I've come across a pushrod with two balls at one end or one at each end to make up for extreme wear, or wrong adjuster bolt in the pressure plate, or a p/rod that's too short. In my experience none of this matters so long as the p/rod is free to slide.
I've lightly oiled mine before reinserting it. It lives in an oily/oil mist environment anyway.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
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Re: burman clutch repair, pushrod
thanks very much for replying, looking at the diagram (yes b52), when i took things apart i made notes , so to put it back as it came off, hopefully it was correct to start with, i notice on the diagram you put on , that it goes tab washer, washer, then nut, when i took it off the washer was behind the tab washer, so it went, washer , tab washer , nut . does this make any difference? should i follow the diagram? thanks
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Re: burman clutch repair, pushrod
I've always assembled as per the drawing. The nut needs to tighten against the stronger steel washer which is more substantial (if memory serves me right) than the rather thin (tin-like) tab washer.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
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Re: burman clutch repair, pushrod
These forums are so helpful, what may seem simple to other members , may not be to others, if your not 100% sure its really good to get a second opinion from the vast knowledge and experience on here, thanks
- Rob Harknett
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Re: burman clutch repair, pushrod
Agree with all said. Couple of points I do think were not mentioned. You should find the ends are case hardened. Grind too much off if you do not case harden again you could son have a bigger dent than you started with. I have replaced, rather than shortened a dented push rod. That was when I was about 17 and took my dented end push rod to my local dealer. Who cut to size and case hardened ends making a new one for me. Quite cheap so I was happy. I would also recommend you clean till its shiny, the complete push rod. As they can seize. Which could increase the rate the ball bores a dent in it.
- Rob Harknett
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Re: burman clutch repair, pushrod
I am puzzled why you appear to be a quest Shaun. Having joined about 2 years ago. You only get 90 days here as a guest.
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Re: burman clutch repair, pushrod
i did not know we had guests, i thought you had to register
- Rob Harknett
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Re: burman clutch repair, pushrod
There are guests & club members. Guests pay nothing to use the forum, but for 90 days only. Club members are those that have paid to be a club member.
- Pharisee
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Re: burman clutch repair, pushrod
Hmmm... I do it the other way, I'm afraid. Put the heavy washer on first, then the tab washer and finally the nut. I do it that way for one very good (as far as I'm concerned) reason. If you put a new tab washer on first followed by the heavy washer and nut, once the nut is fully tightened, I cant get anything behind the tab washer to bend it forward against the nut. The tab washer is trapped hard against the clutch. If you put the heavy washer on first and then the tab washer, you can get a screwdriver or other suitable implement behind the tab washer to bend it forward. The drawing on page three of this article definitely shows the tab washer between the nut and the heavy washer.SPRIDDLER wrote:I've always assembled as per the drawing. The nut needs to tighten against the stronger steel washer which is more substantial (if memory serves me right) than the rather thin (tin-like) tab washer.
http://www.whatfunnyhat.com/images/Burm ... ebuild.pdf
I'm from the Fens.... Gimme six.