Thought I,d share his with you as well chuffed....
I knitted new spokes to wheel which was fairly straight forward, and contacted local bike workshops to true the wheel.
Not a chance for 3 weeks due to workload.
You tubed read forum ideas on this forum, decided to have a go, made a jig out of MDF (as copied from Ian Soady)Thanks Ian.
Fixed a ruler along the bottom of the rim and then against the side of the rim, and managed the get the rim within 1/16th inch of trueness.
All nipples nice and tight, and the ringtone of each spoke sounded exactly the same, really thought this would be more difficult.
Would recommend anyone to have a go.
Wheel truing
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Wheel truing
Mike
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Re: Wheel truing
I agree. Did the front on one of mine a few years ago and it hasn't collapsed yet, so it's probably OK, and have to do another one after a recent wheel-wrecking blow-out on another bike, rear end this time. Have new rim and spokes and tyre etc all ready, just need to gird loins and get on with it. Not exactly looking forward to it, but patience will win through I hope.
FWIW I've been using those 4mm thick Moto-Cross Michelin tubes lately, in an effort to reduce failures. Not cheap, or not here anyway (24€ a shot), but they are certainly a lot tougher-looking than the usual things, which I have had fail several times - either by splitting on a seam, or by having the valve and seat rip clean out, leaving a large-calibre hole (and causing very scary woe on the road at speed).
FWIW I've been using those 4mm thick Moto-Cross Michelin tubes lately, in an effort to reduce failures. Not cheap, or not here anyway (24€ a shot), but they are certainly a lot tougher-looking than the usual things, which I have had fail several times - either by splitting on a seam, or by having the valve and seat rip clean out, leaving a large-calibre hole (and causing very scary woe on the road at speed).
- Harry44
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Re: Wheel truing
I rebuilt my first wheel when I was a teenage cyclist, being an 18 stone prop forward I was destroying shop bought wheels. Using heavier gauge spokes seems to make it easier to get the wheel true with an even tension.
Motorcycle wheels are easier still because of the gauge of the spokes once you get past the Chinese puzzle bit of getting all the spokes laced correctly. My tips are. make a jig with a pointer or preferably two one each side of the rim. Get the rim concentric first then get it true laterally.
However I've never done a wheel with a drum brake hub. So that's a pleasure yet to come.
Motorcycle wheels are easier still because of the gauge of the spokes once you get past the Chinese puzzle bit of getting all the spokes laced correctly. My tips are. make a jig with a pointer or preferably two one each side of the rim. Get the rim concentric first then get it true laterally.
However I've never done a wheel with a drum brake hub. So that's a pleasure yet to come.
si is does non opportunus vos postulo a maior pango
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Re: Wheel truing
Hi
Rebuilt my G3 wheels last year - not difficult at all. I set the offset while the wheel was horizontal at the initial spoke insertion phase - blocked the rim to the correct offset and concentric to the hub, inserted the spokes and tightened to finger tight before moving the wheel to the jig for fully tightening / truing.
Made my jig from two sash cramps gripping a section of 1" square tube, this in turn placed in a vice - two magnetic welding clamps for the spindle support - worked well
Regards Mick
Rebuilt my G3 wheels last year - not difficult at all. I set the offset while the wheel was horizontal at the initial spoke insertion phase - blocked the rim to the correct offset and concentric to the hub, inserted the spokes and tightened to finger tight before moving the wheel to the jig for fully tightening / truing.
Made my jig from two sash cramps gripping a section of 1" square tube, this in turn placed in a vice - two magnetic welding clamps for the spindle support - worked well
Regards Mick
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