Clutch actuating lever jammed â—ï¸
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed â—ï¸
Hi
Yes I meant the inner nut was the standard one - it needs to be tight and retaining the centre firmly on the input shaft.
I can't imagine what the outer nut is doing, it's fitted to the centre extractor thread and if it bears on anything below it will be tending to pull the centre off of the shaft!
Get a suitable socket or box spanner and see if the original nut will secure the centre and then work from there with regard to the rod length.
I'd be tempted to ditch the brass weight.
Regards Mick
Yes I meant the inner nut was the standard one - it needs to be tight and retaining the centre firmly on the input shaft.
I can't imagine what the outer nut is doing, it's fitted to the centre extractor thread and if it bears on anything below it will be tending to pull the centre off of the shaft!
Get a suitable socket or box spanner and see if the original nut will secure the centre and then work from there with regard to the rod length.
I'd be tempted to ditch the brass weight.
Regards Mick
- ajscomboman
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed â—ï¸
Absolutely spot on! Nothing is easily interchangeable, the thrust rod, the cable etc. You can't go back to a Burman clutch either as there would be no cush drive in the line as you can't fit a crank type in the ali dynamo chaincase and the crank itself is too short. It's a case of playing with bits until they all line up and make your own cables up using a JJ cables universal nylon lined kit.G15 Roy wrote:With the set up you have you cannot by any standard parts from the Club and think they will fit.1957M30 wrote:OK....... i have just manager to NIP the inner
nut tighter using long nose pliers with a lever
Inside the jaws and now have no free play.
My problem now is the short trust rod sent by club
Club Spares...... do you think is setting another
Ball at the opposite end would work ?
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed â—ï¸
Hi
An extra ball at the other end will not work - there is nothing there to retain it in position.
Get a piece of silver steel rod of the correct diameter, offer it up to the assembled clutch and cut to length, (prefferably on a lathe to ensure the ends are square). Harden the rod by heat treating - fit and forget.
Silver steel rod available here:
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Engi ... s_362.html
Regards Mick
An extra ball at the other end will not work - there is nothing there to retain it in position.
Get a piece of silver steel rod of the correct diameter, offer it up to the assembled clutch and cut to length, (prefferably on a lathe to ensure the ends are square). Harden the rod by heat treating - fit and forget.
Silver steel rod available here:
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Engi ... s_362.html
Regards Mick
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed â—ï¸
Are we all missing something here if it work before what has gone wrong may be just the centre has come undone? Or one off home made parts have failed ?Mick D wrote:Hi
An extra ball at the other end will not work - there is nothing there to retain it in position.
Get a piece of silver steel rod of the correct diameter, offer it up to the assembled clutch and cut to length, (prefferably on a lathe to ensure the ends are square). Harden the rod by heat treating - fit and forget.
Silver steel rod available here:
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Engi ... s_362.html
Regards Mick
Roy
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed â—ï¸
Hi Roy
Don't think so
Karel asked if an extra ball would work - pretty sure it won't
The push rod is 'mushroomed' for what ever reason so needs to be replaced
Regards Mick
Don't think so
Karel asked if an extra ball would work - pretty sure it won't
The push rod is 'mushroomed' for what ever reason so needs to be replaced
Regards Mick
- dave16mct
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed â—ï¸
The reason it mushroomed was because it was only 1/4" thick. It would be wiggling around all over the place.
- dave16mct
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed â—ï¸
I'm thinking the clutch is coming loose on the shaft because there isn't enough room for a decent thick spring washer. That wierd brass nut was an attempt to keep it on the shaft.
- Duncan
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed â—ï¸
The standard AMC clutch centre nut has a smaller diameter than a "normal" one meaning it is easier to get a socket on it, I have had to grind a socket down to remove a "normal" nut in the past. A good spring washer and Loctite are sensible precautions to prevent the nut coming loose.
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed â—ï¸
I have used a couple of Burman B52 boxes fitted with AMC clutches. The AMC clutch centre splines will fit onto the Burman B52 mainshaft but there is often a bit of backlash and drive load reversal will then loosen the retaining nut. The answer to this is either Loctite nutlock, or a Nord-lock washer - if you're not familiar with these, have a look here - http://www.nord-lock.com
As others have already said - the non-original combination of clutch and gearbox will require a made-to-measure pushrod, easily made from Silver Steel.
The purpose of the large brass nut escapes me - I've seen anything like this. If it has a reduced O.D. at the inner end, could it be tightening up against the 'inner' nut and acting as a locknut?
As others have already said - the non-original combination of clutch and gearbox will require a made-to-measure pushrod, easily made from Silver Steel.
The purpose of the large brass nut escapes me - I've seen anything like this. If it has a reduced O.D. at the inner end, could it be tightening up against the 'inner' nut and acting as a locknut?
- Rob Harknett
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed â—ï¸
In the very first instant, both Mick and myself suggested you looked at the clutch end. This was not done. I was some sort of failure on the clutch end, that resulted in lost of cable adjustment. It has taken a long time and a lot of questions. Even you buying parts to fit on your bike, before we discover you do not have standard parts on the bike. Most of todays bikes have something non standard fitted. Is no longer possible to tell anyone what parts they need until we first discover, exactly what part of the bike wants parts. The confirm the year and model of the part in question.
I get wrong info so often, when ever someone ask me a question about a prewar bike, I ask for numbers to check at least, the main parts are the year and model for the bike, the person believes they have. This often actually offends some people as they know what they have??? Or think they do. They are not happy to have it proved there bike is not built using all the correct year and model parts.
I get wrong info so often, when ever someone ask me a question about a prewar bike, I ask for numbers to check at least, the main parts are the year and model for the bike, the person believes they have. This often actually offends some people as they know what they have??? Or think they do. They are not happy to have it proved there bike is not built using all the correct year and model parts.