Embarrassing newbie questions on oil changes...

[poplargreg]

you wouldn't believe how I've resisted asking these questions.

Welcome to the club.

I can't help you with any advice about your bike but I am an expert at asking stupid questions. If you don't ask, how on earth are you going to learn? You would be doing a lot of other people a favour. Think back to your schooldays when you didn't understand something but were afraid to ask. Then, when you or a classmate did pluck up the courage to show your ignorance, others in the class would suddenly sit up and take notice. Therefore one question could provide an answer to several people. Keep up the good work.

That is very good advice - that was me sat in the back row affecting an air of wisdom

[leswaller]

Postby Janet » Wed Apr 12, 2017 2:07 pm

If it's possible to put a metal rod down the inside of the tank, can you not make a dipstick with upper and lower level marks on it, measured from the heights indicated in the manual? If it isn't possible to fasten it to the filler cap (something Louis de Grave made for for my lightweight, but they're different ) it should be possible to fix a cross-piece at the filler level, to give the correct measurement.

Janet, your idea worked a treat, a length of welding rod marked at high and low levels now sits in the oil tank and goes down the side of the baffle plate. The top of the rod hooks round the oil return outlet pipe to prevent it being dislodged and has a short length sticking up to act as a handle. Many thanks for a great idea

[G12atlast_LAPSED]

Excellent: so far I'm feeling much better able to deal with Plumstead's finest. Thank you all. My next question is also oil related. The decal for upper oil level on my G12 is just above the two screws that hold on the decorative panel. To my mind upper oil should be much higher, say half an inch below the filler neck? Would i be about right?

Cheers,

Simon

[Duncan]

The oil level need to be at least below the hole in the return pipe and some to allow for heat expansion, if you run it too full you will blow oil out of the oil tank breather, remember there will be oil in the sump when you start-up that will need to find room in the tank too.

I am generally happy if looking square on to the filler hole (alloy screw-in type) I can just see the oil level on the back wall of the tank. As far as I am aware there are no accurate dimensions for the position of the transfers (although people have measured the positions from original tanks), generally near enough is good enough.

[1608]

The upper and lower oil level transfers are just for show. As long as the level is about 1/2" below the return out-let in the tank it will be fine. The precise level isn't that crucial. I have never heard of anyone needing a dip stick on these models. I personally wouldn't be happy with a dip stick rattling around in the tank, and you don't want to puncture the gauze filter with it.

[Janet]

I have never heard of anyone needing a dip stick on these models. I personally wouldn't be happy with a dip stick rattling around in the tank, and you don't want to puncture the gauze filter with it.

I only suggested a dipstick because Les (who may not be anyone but he is someone ) was having difficulty seeing his oil level. Whether or not he keeps it in the tank or alongside his spare oil is up to him. Perhaps his addition of a full flow oil filter negates the necessity of the internal gauze filter. Only Les knows but, rest assured, you won't be forced to use a dipstick.

[1608]

Yes, very droll Janet . My point being that using a level measuring device as suggested could just possibly puncture the tank filter, which should still be retained whether or not any in-line filters are used.

[leswaller]

Yes, very droll Janet . My point being that using a level measuring device as suggested could just possibly puncture the tank filter, which should still be retained whether or not any in-line filters are used.

This particular design / incarnation of the oil tank does not have an internal gauze filter and it is impossible to see the oil level due to a baffle plate near the top of the return outlet pipe (as previously stated - hence the need for a dipstick). The dipstick cannot rattle due to the fact that it is tightly fitted round the neck of the outlet pipe and wedged down between the side of the oil tank and the baffle plate.
If you are going to the IJR or the Jampot rallies I will show you

[1608]

Fair enough Les, I was assuming it was the same as my 1960 twin with a baffle plate somewhere near the middle of the tank. Hope to see you at the Jampot, but Poland is just a bit too far for me.

[leswaller]

Ok John, I think what is causing the confusion is that my 1960 engine is in a 1964 frame in which both the toolbox and oil tanks are a totally different design
See you at the Jampot, only 5 miles down the road for me