Lucas Wader Woes

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Iron Head
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Lucas Wader Woes

Post by Iron Head »

Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove a completely stuck NR1 magneto cam that someone decided to submerge probably sometime in the early 60's before putting the bike away. Had to use stilsons to remove the knurled cap and was then met with oxidation city although I think the points are salvageable.

The cam is stuck fast as is the (now broken) advance retard plunger. Even giant tyre levers behind the cam ring won't shift it although I can now get a bit of back and forth movement. Am going to unbolt the end housing and try boiling it but I think it might be scrap.

Thanks

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Mick D
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Re: Lucas Wader Woes

Post by Mick D »

Hi

Clean off as much corrosion as you can first then soak in a 50 / 50 mix of ATF and Acetone for a few days. Dry off, tap gently with a small hammer and apply serious heat from a propane torch and gently lever if you don't have a suitable puller.

Repeat as required - it will come but it may take some time.

Regards Mick
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Iron Head
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Re: Lucas Wader Woes

Post by Iron Head »

Thanks Mick some great advice as always. I'm certainly going to need to disassemble to avoid damaging anything further. Just out of interest and with Kempton Park on the horizon would most green label NR1's for British singles likely run the same cam ring do you know?

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Mick D
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Re: Lucas Wader Woes

Post by Mick D »

Sorry Iron Head

Can't help with the cam ring question but when you're soaking the seized parts keep the fluid away from the windings and anything else insulated with lacquer.

When tapping soft materials, (alloy), I use a piece of hardwood to transfer the blow and prevent marking the component.

ATF / acetone is the best penetrating fluid I've come across, just be patient - getting a set of Trident barrels off took me the best part of a month last year :o

Regards Mick
Groily
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Re: Lucas Wader Woes

Post by Groily »

Most Lucas camrings for singles will interchange as the cb dimensions are standard. There are 2 depths of ring though (speaking axially) as older models had deeper ones. If memory serves, NC1 and NR1 would have the same as, eg, K1F, and new ones are available from eg Dave Lindsley Magnetos. Not cheap, but then they're not that cheap to make, especially in small quantities.
They can be supplied with notches pre-cut to suit, or as blanks for notching to suit by the buyer. That means they can be used for left or right hand rotation, manual or auto-advance.
If the item in question is seriously pitted, especially on the ramp where the points open, a replacement is probably the best answer when the darn thing can be extracted.

Getting them out is a pain sometimes. ATF & acetone I totally agree; also heat . . . and patience. Damaging the housing with excess force just compounds the problem!
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Iron Head
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Re: Lucas Wader Woes

Post by Iron Head »

Thanks Bill. I'm pleased that I'm not the first person to have experienced a stuck cam. Now I have found out how expensive most of the component parts are (if you can find ‘em) I think I'll put the crowbar away?! Tonight I'm devising a way to make and fit a new CB retaining spring as the original rusted away. Did find the tiny carbon insulating pip however amongst the corrosion wreckage.....

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g5wqian
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Re: Lucas Wader Woes

Post by g5wqian »

i had some g9 barrels stuck in a crankcase which id put various oils onto to try to release but they didnt come out easily.

just before xmas i tried a can of cutting oil id brought home from work , its from RECA and is called BIO CUT .

i sprayed that into the stud holes and all around the mating faces etc and left for a week or two then i did it again .
the next time i went by the crankcase i thought ill try and see if i can move those barrels and when i picked one of them up it just slid out of the crankcase .

the bio cut oil is actually fish oil , maybe cod liver oil but i tell you it works a treat , it doesnt dry out quickly if at all .

i know NASA only use whale oil on the spacecraft as they cannot find a man made oil that will work in space or match the whale oil qualities so perhaps its worth looking into using fish oil for some things .

all i can say is it worked for me and i am using it for lubricating hinges and locks etc around here now .

hope you get it sorted

ian
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Iron Head
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Re: Lucas Wader Woes

Post by Iron Head »

Quick update on the NR1 which is now producing a surprisingly good spark and is back on the bike. I guess time (and cylinder pressure) will tell if the 1952 capacitor will last. Took a whole weekend to sort out, cam ring was slowly jarred out of the end housing into a piece of tubing. Points retaining clip was re-made and all parts cleaned up. Got a spark then armature jammed on hand turning and had to be removed and found to be gummed up with rust deposit. Magnets surprisingly good after an armature withdrawal. Cam ring now wants to ‘walk' forward during A/R operation and come off the plunger mushroom so special retaining washer has been installed under knurled cover.

Good bearings ‘robbed' from an old N1 I had spare plus the plunger which was frozen solid on the NR1 and broke when disassembled. New rubber boot for plunger on the way but total cost so far £3.50. Will probably need a proper rebuild but should be good enough to wake the beastie from her 50 odd year slumber this weekend?!

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Plugsnpoints
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Re: Lucas Wader Woes

Post by Plugsnpoints »

This is what I like about this club. There's a generation of people who throw things away now when they play up. This is not so much about saving money, but to have the knowledge to save something and to get it working. It's also not about necessity to get to work tomorrow on the bike these days, but having the patience to repair things and the satisfaction to hear it running when you've spent hours in the shed with a few spanners and a rubber mallet. :)
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Iron Head
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Re: Lucas Wader Woes

Post by Iron Head »

Appreciate the comments Andrew. I personally enjoy nothing more than (sometimes too doggedly) getting something going that hasn't worked for years. Made gaskets last night too using the old gasket paper, grease and rubber mallet technique with the component before cutting it out, very satisfying.

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